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Thread: TD5 Engine Issue

  1. #1
    Nord Guest

    Question TD5 Engine Issue

    I have a 2004 D2 TD5 (145000km of great fun and less money in the bank) - For the last six months or so I have been getting intermittent (what feels like) fuel cut-out as I am driving. I can be just getting going in the morning and increasing revs from a standing start or going at 100 km/hr and it seems like the fuel instantaneously shuts off and on again, and the car lurches accordingly. On the way home today it got really bad and the "M" "S" and Engine light came on! (ALARM!). I lost all accelerator input - so puled over, switched off the engine and back on again. This reset everything and I got home, but I still get the same issue with the engine cutting out spasmodically. I also noted that when I got home and put the beast into park that the engine rpm went to 1900 rpm rather than the usual 750-800 idle rpm. Does anyone have any ideas, my service centre thinks it has something to do with a differential sensor between the inlet and outlet of the turbo. Someone else I know suggests that it may be oil contamination in the fuel injector wiring harness. Any assistance appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Does it do it when using the cruise control?
    If not, my guess is Throttle position sensor.

    Fraser

  3. #3
    Nord Guest
    I cannot recall if it does it in cruise control....I will go and check now. cheers

  4. #4
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    Check your battery terminals.
    2003 D2a Auto TD5 good Landy gone
    2015 D4 probably the most amazing yet, why get a RR?

  5. #5
    Nord Guest
    Throttle position sensor it is! Well done and many thanks. I took the beast for a spin up the freeway and sure enough it started to carry on like it did earlier today until I flicked it into cruise control and voila...all good...(did this a few times and also accelerated from 40 Km/Hr in cruise control to 100 km/hr with no hiccups). Next question - do you need a degree in engineering and a super computer to change out the throttle position sensor or does it come as a pre calibrated and zeroed unit which is easily changed out? My guess is the latter but the cynic in me tells me that it is probably hard to get at though! (I have access to the manuals)

    Thanks again for your advice, great stuff - I guess the 1900 rpm idle speed should have drawn me to the same conclusion, but you alway tend to think of the worst case defect first.

  6. #6
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    my understanding is there is a 2 track and a 3 track TPS, if you replace it with the same as what is in there, it just works, if you need to put the other type in, it's a case of using a nanocom or some other similar device to tell the car what type is being installed.
    They are a terribly over-priced unit, I once tried to contact the manufacturer direct and they were something like $17 each if you buy 1000 of them, but I believe they cost around the $200-300 mark

    Cheers,

    Fraser

  7. #7
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    Before replacing it,make sure there isnt a foot mat getting jammed in it.
    Check your ECU for oil contamination,"Oil in the Harness" is a cause of the pedal playing up.
    Is it recording "driver demand error" as a fault???
    Andrew
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Before replacing it,make sure there isnt a foot mat getting jammed in it.
    Check your ECU for oil contamination,"Oil in the Harness" is a cause of the pedal playing up.
    Is it recording "driver demand error" as a fault???
    Andrew
    This would also be my first thought. If the pedal track was faulty, it wouldn't cut out while driving with the pedal in one spot unless its on a cracked track.
    With an '04 model with that little km's, doubtful the tracks have worn out or had reason to break.

    Cheers


    Andrew

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