hi all, ive got a 1999 disco 2, v8 auto not on gas
the heads were replaced about 12 months ago, 2 weeks ago it started overheating again, so ive pulled it off the road and replaced the thermostat, had the radiator flushed out (it was blocked) checked the water pump which looks perfect, the clutch fan workes as it should, flushed out the heater core and the block, and it still overheats, almost like the water isnt flowing through the block?
what jumps to mind for things i can check next? am i over reacting if i think it may have a slipped piston liner?
How does the header tank look, any splits, is it original black one than change it.
Get a compression test done and take it from there.
Perhaps check thermostat and make sure all hoses are fine.
As a rule, I replace mine every 3 years or whenever i get a new car.
Keep the old ones as spares.
Also get a low water alarm, they are worth their money.
Do you have any oil in water and or water in oil, missfire etc.
header tank is a clear plastic one, its not loosing any water.......until it boils over, brand new thermostat, that was the first thing i chenged when it overheated, its got no leaks anywhere, it had a small misfire on cold start up a week before it overheated, but that went away. and it is not mixing oil and water
it just doesnt seem to circulate water around the block, but the water pump is in perfect working order
Sounds like a D1 V8 I met once. It had bad corrosion sometime in its life, and flakes of crud were breaking off and blocking the water flow to the LH head back passage. So it went boily boily without the temp gauge going up until all the water was blown out. I tried lots of different ways to get the crud out but none were successful. Always more crud flaked off and it did it again.
I thought a chemical flush might work but got nowhere with a daft customer. Eventually he went away.
this is a photo of what the radiator was like before it was cleaned, your reply has got me thinking bee utey, is there any way of checking to see if that couold be the problem with mine without stripping the motor down?
One of the methods I used to shift crud was to remove the water pump, then used a mix of water and compressed air (garden hose, tee piece, air hose & valve) into the top hose. I could see a distinct difference in flow between the banks so I stuffed rags into the clear side to produce back flush pressure. I collected the lumps in a flywire net I fastened over the block intlet. Then presented the lumps to the owner, who took them to another "expert" who said no way could those lumps come from the engine. I disagreed.
ok i will check this out tomorrow night after work, when i flushed the block out i didnt notice any muck coming out, but that doesnt mean anything because im not a mechanic, thanks for the hint, lets hope i get somewhere because i am stumped with this one
well i had no luck, going to strip the motor down and get to the bottom of this, im fully expecting a cracked block, and am thinking of buying a breand new bottom end
Fossicker
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