So what you guys are saying is that if its running perfectly now dont change it. hmm....
obviously all the suspension will be replace.
Thanks for all the advice
Cheers
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So what you guys are saying is that if its running perfectly now dont change it. hmm....
obviously all the suspension will be replace.
Thanks for all the advice
Cheers
I did the Simpson last year and Slunnie's reply is spot on.
Only thing I'd add is that if your model has the rubber uni joint on the rear drive shaft, at least take a spare joint (about $100) and inspect every night. If you are heavily loaded, the bouncing up the hills puts a lot of load on it. I chewed one out that was less than a year old, and destoyed the bolts & flanges, so that I had to limp home on front axle only. I've since replaced with a std cardan joint (get with a new shaft from Karcraft for about $450) and would recommend doing this before you go.
Mundy
I am curious about the suspension lift - you mentioned that you have SLS, so that's the airbags in the rear. What sort of a suspension lift is this that you've fitted or planning to fit? Does it simply have a little extension on the ride height sensors, so the airbags are just inflated higher, or does the kit include raised blocks for the bottom of the airbags?
If it's just raising the suspension by pumping more air in, then the SLS system will not survive the trip, because the longer shocks will overextend the bags, and you will rip them.
The other important thing that was not mentioned, or maybe I failed to read it, is that the front driveshaft - if you've never serviced it, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get the DC joint rebuilt, because this is a known weakness in the DII's drivetrain.
thanks for the advice on the drive train.. as i have already done what you have said, but its good to know to take a spare rubber join....
as for suspension i have come across Land Rover Discovery Series II 1999.5-2004 Suspension Lift Kits i dont want to run 2" lift for every day driving so im thinking to go with spacers all round... can someone tell me if i need to get break line extensions? and can i still use extended Shocks for the back?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/09/554.jpgLand Rover Discovery II SLS 2" Suspension Lift Kit
This is the lift for the Discovery II owners with the factory air ride rear, (rear air spring/ air bag) This is a set of 2" CNC machined aluminum front coil spring spacers, a set of CNC machined aluminum rear air bag spring spacers, that can be used on a Land Discovery Series II 1999 through 2004 with the factory air ride rear. This will provide 2" of extra lift for bigger tires or more ground clearance, while still using the stock springs / shocks, or with after-market lift springs / shocks. This kit has the front shock relocation mounts. Also included, all grade 8 hardware, rear air ride adjustment bracket, and instructions. This is a precisely machined direct bolt in kit.
Regular price: $209.95
Sale price: $199.95
What are you going to do....install the spacers when you go off road then remove them for the hard stuff? I reckon you might do this once then leave them installed forever. I'm not sure coil spring spacers are legal anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by XHPBT1
I'd get the air spring lift kit from Tombie2 here, and install +2" coil springs on the front. I did this and have no regrets. I ended up installing +2 shocks on the rear, but I left the front shocks standard and never had a problem. I only replaced the rear shocks as they top out a little if you use the "off road mode" extended lift (+40mm), otherwise the standard shocks on the rear are okay too. I did all this under $500, and the ride is still A1 on the road.:cool:
biggin is right here the coil spacers will prove to be taxing as they arent the easiest thing to put in and out. A 2" lift is no drama driving it around on the road daily and with the SLS rear you prob wont even notice that its there. Especially if you intend on running an upsized tire a permanent lift is the way to go. I run coils all round without sway bars daily and its no drama.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggin
With a 2" you wont need to do anything about your brake lines, however with the SLS and the magic button, that will equate to a 4" in the rear on demand which will be pushing the friendship.
My suggestion would be Mickey Thompsons, very good rep for carcus strength and mileage.
My question to you is can i come?
If you are chasing a rotoflex, PM as you already know where i live :)
ok well it looks like i will install a 2" spring on the front.
I have read through a few fourms and they are saying that the SLS airbag could be damage at full articulation with 2"+ shocks? how does ur behave? and what brand are your shocks?
"THE KID" what is a rotoflex? hows your D2 going? where do you go and get ur D2 dirty? Im sick of going with toyotas and getting up everything they cant :D
Did the Simpson in 04,solo.No problems at all,not a very challenging trip,compared with say a Cape trip,but a fantastic place & very worth while seeing..Well maintained vehicle as said by others is paramount.
Slunnies post is spot on.
Weight is important,only take what you need,travel as light as possible.nothing onthe roof is the go as well.
As for my D2,set of BFG a/t's,& that was about it.
But it was new,we had only had it for 4 weeks,had 5K on the clock when we got back.;)
Good luck
My disco is going GREAT! so happy with it twin locked and going off! Not sure if you have kept up with it but here is the thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...gh-flyers.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by XHPBT1
The rotoflex is the rubber doughnut in the tail shaft where a UNI should be. I went uni to uni in a 3mm wall custom tailshaft when the lockers went in. Where it gets dirty? Ill go, just about anywhere haha. Last run was the logan night run with the logan club, was the smallest truck there and the only Rover, finished 8th or so out of the 22 starters, the car that finished behind me was a twin locked 75 series on 36's full blown comp truck :)
OT,
Not having done the simpson trip myself BUT im not sure how many full articulation moments you will have out there? let alone hit the magic button. I on the other hand went coils all round and have never looked back!
The 2 heater hoses at bottom of radiator - (drivers side) MUST be securely tied so as to not be hit by cooling fan. i highly recommend you install a tm2 engine watchdog audible/visual engine temperature monitor...or similar device. ps. if the fan holes the heater hose you will need about 200mm 3/4 inch copper pipe and a couple of hose clips.