Hilux diff conversion

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

I can't see tyre size making much difference to whether they bend or not. ISUZU powered landies seem the most prone to bending housings because of weight. Btw - the diff pan on that is 8 mm thick - I think it is strong enough :D

Most comp landies don't even run that much bracing.

There is no reason you cannot extend the bracing out to the flanges if you wish.

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Fare call on the dif pan the 8mm didnt show in the pics...

As Ben said to brace a diff is easy we going to be doing complete lamination of diff with 5mm steel so the entire diff housing will be encased and strenghened by a outside skin
Aframe is not the strongest set up but very funcational ,and very good and easy

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Originally Posted by disco_thrasher

As Ben said to brace a diff is easy we going to be doing complete lamination of diff with 5mm steel so the entire diff housing will be encased and strenghened by a outside skin
Aframe is not the strongest set up but very funcational ,and very good and easy

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While your doing that can you do mine? :)

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Originally Posted by long stroke

When you braced your diff, did you have any trouble with the diff worping or destorting etc due to excessive welding involved?

CHEERS TIM.

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I pre-stressed the housing before welding (see pics in my members thread), and welded in short runs. It is still straight.

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Originally Posted by disco_thrasher

As Ben said to brace a diff is easy we going to be doing complete lamination of diff with 5mm steel so the entire diff housing will be encased and strenghened by a outside skin
Aframe is not the strongest set up but very funcational ,and very good and easy

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You may already know this - however - The further you can get the bracing away from the axle centreline the stronger it will be. Tubing it inside or plating it outside will not be as strong as a truss.

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Originally Posted by crash

Would it not have been easier to get a Dana 60/70/or 80 built, plus would have been just as strong with the stock axles and CVs? The cost would probably be similar.

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Its a huge loss of ground clearance for 37's, but a much stronger setup.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Its a huge loss of ground clearance for 37's, but a much stronger setup.

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It is a loss of 21.5 mm if you shave the sals/D60 fully (difference between 8" and 9.75" ring gear). If you are really keen you can even do what some have done and machine down the ring gear another 0.5" or so...

The more important difference seems to be the big surface area of the bottom of a sals/d60.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

It is a loss of 21.5 mm if you shave the sals/D60 fully (difference between 8" and 9.75" ring gear). If you are really keen you can even do what some have done and machine down the ring gear another 0.5" or so...

The more important difference seems to be the big surface area of the bottom of a sals/d60.

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What will the Rover shave down?

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

What will the Rover shave down?

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The flat bottomed housing can't really be shaved with a rover 8.25" ring gear. Going to 8" toyota, you could conceivably shave 1/8" - but my numbers above were assuming that had already been done.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

It is a loss of 21.5 mm if you shave the sals/D60 fully (difference between 8" and 9.75" ring gear). If you are really keen you can even do what some have done and machine down the ring gear another 0.5" or so...

The more important difference seems to be the big surface area of the bottom of a sals/d60.

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In a comp vehicle I would be going strenght over saving 21.5mm of ground clearance, to me it is a bit like cutting your toothbrush in half when you go hiking in order to save weight - will it really make that much of a difference, I don't think so.

What about that bloke in the UK who put Unimog Portals with D2 ABS rotors on his D2.

He was selling some kind of kit for it.

It was one big Mother of a D2 though. Like a good coupla feet higher than standard!

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