Reply With QuoteAs previously metioned. That voltage is fine.
You might have more success in describing what the problem is rather than thinking it's the battery.
Master
SupporterI have been having intermittent starting problem about a week now. It only happen during morning start.
Replaced the fob battery but still the same.
The car battery is 12.77V after shutdown and 12.38V in the morning. Altenator seems ok because otherwise the battery would be dead by now if alternator doesnt charging the battery.
Anyone has any idea what could be the problem? Could it be the starting motor playing up?
As previously metioned. That voltage is fine.
You might have more success in describing what the problem is rather than thinking it's the battery.
Hi dearot
Rattler or guzzler? does it crank over ok?
Master
SupporterSometimes on the 1st try it doesnt even crank just as if the imobiliser is still on. After few seconds,on 2nd try it crank over but doesnt start. when it does this, all the light on dashboard and radio are all off. 3rd try, it starts as normal.
But sometimes on 1st try just as if the imobilser is still on (as previously describe) and then on 2nd try after few seconds it starts perfectly.
They dont always happend every morning. some morning it starts as normal.
Wizard
Dearot
I would be inclined to believe it's the starter motor.
I have experienced something similiar before on a different car where it would just make a click sound and then do nothing. Dash lights would come on.
When this occurred in the other vehicle until I replaced the starter was just hit it with the wood handle of a hammer and sure enough would start. This only lasted for a short period as a stop gap until it died completely.
Not sure where the starter is on the vehicle but would be a idea to hit the starter as you turn the ignition (on the main body of the starter).
Regards
Andrew
check your battery terminals are tight and not dirty, also wiggle the ends that go on the starter to make sure they are tight..
Cheers Ean
YarnMaster
Assuming you have a TD5......
Its the starter solenoid contacts. Do a search for it and you will find a tutorial or ten on it. No need to replace the whole starter.
The solenoid uses copper contacts that over time wear from starter current arcing. New contact sets are availiable which is either replacement plunger and additional body contact set.
If the spring on the plunger is damaged like mine was, you can only get it in a full starter motor kit which is contacts, plunger and brush set so be careful with it.
Ashdowns have these kits available. Ashdowns owed me a favour and whipped a spring out of a kit for me as i didnt need the full kit.
OEX brand contact and plunger numbers from Ashdown
Contact set- SLX75827
Plunger - SLX75564
Take notice of the tools required to pull the starter.... It WILL save you a lot of time, skin and use of your extended vocabulary.....
Cheers
Andrew
Master
SupporterThanks Andrew.Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE
I got them this morning and plan to do it this Tuesday. Cost only $24 inc. Much better than $640 new one (aftermarket)
Hopefully it will cure my D2 before going to High Country late november or early december.
Fossicker
SupporterA few weeks ago I was reading about the Td5 starter contacts on this forum and decided to buy some repacement bits ( contacts and Plunger) from Ashdowns to keep in stock...just in case.
My Td5 has about 130Kms and during the past week I have had a couple of non-start clicks with plenty of battery voltage.
Today it just would not start.
Today I removed the starter and the contacts were badly worn through electrical arcing.
An easy/cheap repair thanks to the advice given here at AULRO.
After removing the electrical positive lead and the spade terminal from the solenoid...the Starter is held by 13 mm ( head) bolts x 2 easily accessed from underneath.....plus the Hidden 15mm nut on the top of the starter ( below the intake manifold).
I was in Supercheap about the time I bought the spare bits and they had loose single sockets so I picked up a 3/8 drive x 15mm for $1
Extension bars and flexible uni joint allowed access to top nut. (The engine mount bracket blocks in-line access to the nut)
If you remove the acoustic engine cover you can see and get light on the hidden nut.
My Td5 is an auto and so there are the two metal cooling pipes under the starter and mounted on a bracket held by the two lower starter bolts. There was enough flex to move the bracket without undoing any other bolts.
Other than the above ..no real difficulties. There is a picture tutorial on the forum about removing the solenoid cover and replacing the contacts..but it is really straightfoward.
Cheers
Bob
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