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Thread: Auto Cooler Pipes

  1. #1
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    Auto Cooler Pipes

    Hi All

    Have discovered my previous auto woes were caused by low fluid levels. Now that I have nice red fluid in the gearbox again I have determined that the leak at the front passenger side is not the power steering pump (per my D1) but the auto cooler hoses leaking (bright aren't I).

    Have read several posts on here about getting a hose specialist to fabricate something. I won't be able to get any time off before Xmas and wonder if I should:

    1) Leave it until I can get time to pull hoses off & take to Pirtek (etc)
    2) Buy replacements on ebay & fit myself
    3) Take it to mechanic & get them to do arrange replacements

    I'm thinking I'll go with 2 so I don't leave it too long. Any idea what the costs of 1 or 3 would be? Are genuine replacements likely to fail again in the same way?

    Thanks

    Cameron

  2. #2
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    Is it the hose itself or the connection to the cooler?

    The cooler connections are extremely bad for coming apart when reconnecting if not fully seated, trust me,went through litres of fluid like this. But that'd be more obvious (unless you're very special).

    If it's the hose running to the cooler your issue will be matching the connections onto the cooler pipes. Been thinking of cutting the ends of the pipes and replacing with std hydraulic quick releases. FWIW made hoses will be much better than OEM.

  3. #3
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    go genuine, and don't worry about replacing them for another 10 years
    i am sorry to sound condescending, but i really don't understand people that think a product that fails at around 10 years old on a car is a problem. yes i have heard that they can be a problem and am considering replacing mine as well. but hey, my car is 10 years old, and i certainly wouldn't expect my tyres to be still good after 10 years, or my alternator belt, so why do we need to assume a rubber hose is any different ?
    if it happened evey year or 2 i can see why it would need to be considered to get them made up, but i don't really plan on owning my D2 in 10 years so am happy for genuine.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoCam View Post
    Hi All

    Have discovered my previous auto woes were caused by low fluid levels. Now that I have nice red fluid in the gearbox again I have determined that the leak at the front passenger side is not the power steering pump (per my D1) but the auto cooler hoses leaking (bright aren't I).


    Cameron
    Hi Cameron. I found a leak on the front passenger side on my D2 Auto some after an extended remote trip. Appeared as oil on the chassis rail and area. Turned out to be not the hoses but a crack in the cooler itself where the short pipe is welded. A really poor design. New cooler is expensive i.e. $800 ish.

    Also check Karcraft for genuine hoses.

    cheers
    _________________________
    1996 D1 V8 - gone
    2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
    2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
    2023 Defender 110SE D300

  5. #5
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    Thanks JWB. Will spend some quality time under the car this weekend to confirm it is hoses & not the cooler.

    Was thinking the same thing Rosscoe that another 10 years on genuine hoses at $25/year is probably cheap enough. Hopefully in 5yrs it won't be my concern.

    Cheers

  6. #6
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    Talking AUTO cooler pipes

    Been through the whole process--it is a crack in the auto cooler where the pipe on the left hand side connects. When you buy the neww auto cooler you will see that they have beefed up where the fitting is. this is a very fiddly job, which involves removing all the covers off the front including lights and surrounds-- take the fan out as well-- if you decide it is the pipes I have a spare set [I bought everything that it could've been to be sure,to be sure] it is a good full weekend job BEST OF LUCK
    Greg
    ps--check www.discovery2.co.uk somewhere in this site there is a removal of the turbo cooler same same

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rosscoe68 View Post
    go genuine, and don't worry about replacing them for another 10 years
    i am sorry to sound condescending, but i really don't understand people that think a product that fails at around 10 years old on a car is a problem. yes i have heard that they can be a problem and am considering replacing mine as well. but hey, my car is 10 years old, and i certainly wouldn't expect my tyres to be still good after 10 years, or my alternator belt, so why do we need to assume a rubber hose is any different ?
    if it happened evey year or 2 i can see why it would need to be considered to get them made up, but i don't really plan on owning my D2 in 10 years so am happy for genuine.
    To be honest I "sort" of agree, However the cooler pipes generally dont fail because of old age, ie pipe split etc, they fail at the crimp which connects the flexi to the solid pipe, they simply pop off!!!..............and thats nothing to do with old age, its just crap build quality as that crimp should last the life of the car.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Urban Panzer View Post
    To be honest I "sort" of agree, However the cooler pipes generally dont fail because of old age, ie pipe split etc, they fail at the crimp which connects the flexi to the solid pipe, they simply pop off!!!..............and thats nothing to do with old age, its just crap build quality as that crimp should last the life of the car.

    are you serious ?
    sorry, guess i just don't understand how anyone could possibly think anything in this throwaway western society is actually built to last !
    LR are built in england for a domestic market that keeps them for a maximum of about 5 years and probly 100,000k max. and here is us complaining that at 10 years and half a million k's we have problems, go figure

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the replies all. Work Christmas party left me a bit too dazed & confused to consider doing much to the car. I did manage a little look but it is a bugger of a spot to see and I can't ascertain where the leak is yet.

    Urban Panzer - I see from your site that you pulled the air filter box out to get access. Is that an easy thing to do?

    If it is a split in the cooler can it be welded? Is it steel or alloy/aluminium?

    Thanks again all. Looks like my mechanical ability is about to be stretched again.

  10. #10
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    hmm, again, my post sounds critical, it was intended as a casual reply, no offense intended

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