Thread: Intermittent check engine light with loss of power D2 TD5

And now I have made a truly rookie error and posted it in the wrong forum completely... Could a moderator please move this to the Discovery 2 forum please? Thanks.

Pads

And I'll add this first, the throttle pedal/ potentiometer will be the culprit. To verify, 'Driver demand circuit error' codes will be found if this is the fault.

JC

If it still has the factory injector wiring loom, I would not rule out oil contamination in the loom and computer. Check for oil in the computer.

Aaron.

Originally Posted by justinc

And I'll add this first, the throttle pedal/ potentiometer will be the culprit. To verify, 'Driver demand circuit error' codes will be found if this is the fault.

JC

Does anyone know how much a dealer charges to do this check? I guess I need to try and get my own unit to read the codes as I have read they pay for themselves over time.

Will have a poke around but until I get the Rave cd I will be just guessing, though I can check out the harness for oil.

Can I get this moved to the Disco 2 section please? I posted it in the wrong section by mistake. Cheers,

Pads

Originally Posted by Pads

Does anyone know how much a dealer charges to do this check? I guess I need to try and get my own unit to read the codes as I have read they pay for themselves over time.

Will have a poke around but until I get the Rave cd I will be just guessing, though I can check out the harness for oil.

Can I get this moved to the Disco 2 section please? I posted it in the wrong section by mistake. Cheers,

Pads

G'day & welcome, I've got the V8 model & assuming the process of reading the codes b/w both the td5 & 4L are similar my mech asked fir $65 to read the error codes for me. I was a reasonably new customer to him & the price dropped to $50 as soon as I mentioned paying cash.
It's a rough gauge at least I guess.
Cheers

Sounds like oil in the injector harness.
If you have cruise control you can pretty much drive normally once you get above 45ks, that is use the pedal carefully and then use the cruise button.
Yes it is fly by wire.
I drove like this for 200k while i was on a trip.
It is an easy job changing the injector harness 2 hrs tops, you could do it in 1 hr if you were not fussy about cleaning things up to much.
Order a new timing cover seal at the same time.
I put a wet and dry vac on my engine harness to pull the oil back out of it 10 minutes of sucking seemed to clear that, but it is the injector harness that needs changing.
You can clean them out with metho but on a time/cost basis its not worth it.
People talk about oil getting into the computer but i dont see any evidence of that on mine.

Hi Pads and welcome. It is easy to become overwhelmed with these for the first time.

I think JC has got it right.

Have a look at the "members with diagnostic equipment" Living in Sydney you will likely have someone very close with nanocom or similar.

As already mentioned by yourself (well done doing the search) and others the issue will be 0ne of 3 things TPS, Oil in the loom or Crank Position sensor.

So under the bonnet on drivers side behind the battery you will see the ECU with a black plug and a Red plug. Carefuly remove the red one and look for any oil. If oil is there use some contact cleaner (spray can from Repco Super cheap etc) Check the black one too and refit. (10 minutes effort. If the problem goes away or improves this will be the culprit. A replacement loom will be permanent cure.

The Crank Position Sensor is on the drivers side at about the 11 oclock position (when looking in from the front) on the gearbox bell housing. Reaching in or from underneath whith engine running and giving it a wriggle will usually bring up the fault if it is the CPS. (not a 100% guarantee) But saving you a bit of labour at the mechanic.

The Throttle Potiometer or TPS is harder to check without a multi meter or diagnostic equipment but as JC said will be the issue if the others come up OK.

One final thing not metioned is asocitaed with a modified ECU and poor pin contact internally. (wouldnt even bother if STD ECU)

I would suggest the hrly rate of $100 to be expected and 1/2 an hour is all that should be required.
* NOTE diagnostic tools point to the component associate with the fault and do not always pin point the fault itself, so take the time do all the checks of plugs earths etc before you change anything.

If you take it to a mech. Remember that the TD5 has specific communication protocols and not every diagnostic tool will communicate so check first.


With a little time and reading you will end up feeling very confident with your TD5.

cheers

Originally Posted by strangy

Hi Pads and welcome. It is easy to become overwhelmed with these for the first time.

I think JC has got it right.

Have a look at the "members with diagnostic equipment" Living in Sydney you will likely have someone very close with nanocom or similar.

As already mentioned by yourself (well done doing the search) and others the issue will be 0ne of 3 things TPS, Oil in the loom or Crank Position sensor.

So under the bonnet on drivers side behind the battery you will see the ECU with a black plug and a Red plug. Carefuly remove the red one and look for any oil. If oil is there use some contact cleaner (spray can from Repco Super cheap etc) Check the black one too and refit. (10 minutes effort. If the problem goes away or improves this will be the culprit. A replacement loom will be permanent cure.

The Crank Position Sensor is on the drivers side at about the 11 oclock position (when looking in from the front) on the gearbox bell housing. Reaching in or from underneath whith engine running and giving it a wriggle will usually bring up the fault if it is the CPS. (not a 100% guarantee) But saving you a bit of labour at the mechanic.

The Throttle Potiometer or TPS is harder to check without a multi meter or diagnostic equipment but as JC said will be the issue if the others come up OK.

One final thing not metioned is asocitaed with a modified ECU and poor pin contact internally. (wouldnt even bother if STD ECU)

I would suggest the hrly rate of $100 to be expected and 1/2 an hour is all that should be required.
* NOTE diagnostic tools point to the component associate with the fault and do not always pin point the fault itself, so take the time do all the checks of plugs earths etc before you change anything.

If you take it to a mech. Remember that the TD5 has specific communication protocols and not every diagnostic tool will communicate so check first.


With a little time and reading you will end up feeling very confident with your TD5.

cheers

That is very good advice, all the info and diagnostic tools are available, and compared to other makes of vehicle are very cheap IMHO. Plus we are all here to help, so get to it

JC