Thread: Radiator end tank leak

For the age of these vehicles just replace the radiator...

It was an ultra small weep that resulted in $9000.00 worth of recovery and repair on my vehicle (Tombies Road Trip)

They are sub $400.00 for a complete unit.

any opinions on an alloy or copper core like this one?

British Four Wheel Drive - Land Rover & Range Rover Parts Specialist :: DISCOVERY SERIES 2 :: COOLING SYSTEM :: TD5 :: PCC001070-CRADIATOR TD5 DISCOVERY COPPER CORE

also are there any thicker core ones out there as I will soon be fitting the bullbar and driving lights all robbing airflow. or is this not a concern and just stick with a stock replacement?

cheers

Matt

Hi Matt
Ive just replaced my cooling sytem.I got a standard radiator,was less than $300.Copper core is interesting,I thought manufacturers went aluminium as it transfers heat faster and is lighter/cheaper.
Whilst you are at it look at your viscous hub,it has more to do with the efficiency of the cooling system than a heavy duty radiator.Mine was shot.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-overhaul.html
Goodluck
Andrew

Found the leak.

It is coming from the under the screw that holds the shroud on on the Passenger side. do you think an O rink or rubber washer would do the job?

Cheers

Matt

Originally Posted by mattg

Found the leak.

It is coming from the under the screw that holds the shroud on on the Passenger side. do you think an O rink or rubber washer would do the job?

Cheers

Matt

Nope, I had the same problem with mine. Tried:thread tape on the screw, silastic etc. All slowed the leak but did not stop it. In the end I replaced the radiator with a new one.

In my case the motor had been worked on (BHG) previous to my purchase and the mechanic cross threaded the screw when replacing the plastic cover. The blind hole in the plastic end cap is yet another dumb design...

Having fixed that the system is now leaking at the throttle body heater, a job to do when I get back to Perth.

The radiator cost me about $600 from the dealer and was a 4 hour job. (would be a lot quicker second time round)

Cheers
Ron

Hi mattg,

I had the same problem.

Porgey, on this site gave me the following fix.

Dave My D2 radiator was leaking in the same place I cleaned out and tapped the hole with a Quarter UNC thread ( only tap I had near that size hole) and then Araldited the correct stud into it and used a nut and washer to secure the cover hasn't leaked in 12 months Cheers George

It worked a treat. Mine hasn't leaked in 2 years. Has done some work pulling a 1.5 ton camper.

Dave

So does that screw actually go into the coolant?

I have just replaced my radiator for the same issue. I believe that the screws are too long and have the potential to screw through the plastic housing into the tank. I have shortened both of my screws by approx 5mm this time around.

This is my fourth radiator.

Before you ask.

1st. Core leak.
2nd. Snapped bleed return line (front LH) during hose replacement. (not uncommon.)
3rd. Screw pierced tank where shroud installs (replaced by supplier as I argued it should accept the OEM screws as designed). New one went under the house and then I salvaged the original end tank and swapped it over.
4th. Same screw location after the missus gave the car a flogging on a hot day. Screw must have been waiting to go. New one from under house used.

I am all out of spare radiators at the moment and feeling kinda naked and vulnerable.