as Phillip says,
it wont be connected to compression,
it IS idling/running on all 8?
(wheres that sound file--)
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as Phillip says,
it wont be connected to compression,
it IS idling/running on all 8?
(wheres that sound file--)
I just had a thought.
have you looked at the flex plate being cracked?
That would make clang clang noises and vary with load , and be worst at idle.
Regards Philip A
Thanks PhilipA. Seems that only removing the inlet manifold will give an answer. As a next step I will try to run the engine without the serpentine belt and try to track the noise from the front of the engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
The sound file is here (first at idle with no load (no noise), then idle under load (rattling noise) and at the end 1000rpm with load):
http://muj.optol.cz/janousek/LR/cam-idle_plus_1000.wav
I can hear clicking noise (probably lifters) and more loud rattling noise which is half the frequency of engine rpm.
Do you mean the plate used to fit the camshaft? I think it is called thrust plate in RAVE, is this the plate you mean? Please could you specify?Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Id be shutting down each cylinder one at a time by pulling the injector plug lead as well as backing the timing of a touch.
to me it sounds halfway between pinging and big end knock if its a combustion related problem on one pot its only going to turn up at 1/2 crank speed because it only fires every second turn of the crank.
Id also look for a blown out exhaust manifold and if you have a spot thermometer check each port of the exhaust manifold for temp, if everything is good then all should hit the same temp at the same time. if ones getting there quicker than the rest or its not getting to the same temp then thats the pot with the problem.
best of luck.
the flex plat is the bit that connects the torque converter to the crank. think lightweight flywheel.
OK, first of all I have a manual transmission. There is a drive plate which is probably something similar. Anyway it seems to me that the noise is not comming from clutch, rather from engine, and if it would, I would expect noise at engine rpm and not half rpm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
crank shaft noises can occour at lots of different multiples of crank RPM due to the harmonics thing.
I still think a cylinder by cylinder shut down to identify which part of the engine is causing the problem is a good idea as is running the engine with the rocker covers off.
if its valve train related 90% of the time you can spot it in the movement of ther rocker arms or by scoping them with a metal rod/touching them.
That sort of covers Daves suggestionQuote:
Originally Posted by jiri_j
Quote:
Originally Posted by jiri_j
.... I'm working from the noise off that sound file ....
... That "Death rattle" makes your engine sound like a Diesel ... :eek:
Is this statement correct ....
The rattle is not present on NO LOAD .... but is clearly heard on LOAD
In some respects it (Rattle) replicates a engine that has massive (too much) advance ... Can you check the timing on the D2 ...
When using the stethoscope .... It is an excellent tool ... You need to be patient with it, and place it in many spots, to get it to the heart of the noise
I doubt this next bit is the suspect ... But is possible
The other is a loose gudgeon pin (Piston) ... This can be checked for being suspect, without stripping the motor ... I can explain the method if required
Hi Mike, thank you for your help. Yes, the statement is correct: noise is ONLY present when the engine is under load. When no load, everything is fine at ALL rpm, idling well. When loaded, no matter what rpm, you can hear noise. At higher rpms (like 1500rpm and above) the noise is like continuous scraping noise - metal is slightly grinding another metal, remainds me like a chain slipping over something, noise can be heared only inside the car with closed doors; at lower rpms (idle and 1000rpm) the noise is loud knocking noise (at half frequency of engine rpm) and can be heared outside/inside. ALWAYS there has to be a load on the engine. If no load, no noise. I also observed that at idle you need only a little of load, at higher rpm higher load, to reproduce the noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
Could this be timing chain? At higher rpm grinding eg. a timing gear cover, at lower rpm influencing an engine advance and hence the loud knocking noise? But my question is, why would this happen ONLY when the engine is under load?
I have an OBD2 tool and can measure timing advance at variuous conditions. I will do it. I will redo also the David's test with switching off cylinders, since I concentrated before on the high rpm noise (scraping noise). I will give it a try once more, this time for a loaded idling engine.
Yes please, post here the method. I am happy to check for a loose gudgeon pin! Thank you again and I greatly appreciate help from all of you guys!!!