I was watching a repeat episode of wheeler dealers on austar the other day and they were adjusting the steering box on a D1, it takes a bit of care because you can adjust too far and make the steering heavy in one direction, i've also been told that you can over adjust and stuff it all up. They ended up replacing the steering box on the D1 because there was too much play.
Cheers Matt
I would check your last wheel alignment data, and verify the castor setting on the front end. If the vehicle has been lifted, it is bound to have reduced the castor ( the castor gives the vehicle it's directional stability and self centre out of corners ) Worn tyres, bushes or other suspension components will just make it worse.
The steering box is bound to have internal wear, but most of it will be at the straight ahead. The risk in tightening the adjustment bolt you are contemplating, is that the you will reduce the straight ahead play, but as the box turns off centre onto lesser worn parts/gears, it will bind up.
I would be investigating further before going for a quick fix.
Get some confirmation on the wheel alignment settings and the general suspension condition first up.
D4 2.7litre
Castor corrected front arms seems that are a solution for some users lifted.
I'm going for box adjustment. Wear on the sector shaft and bushes ends up with slack. Pretty straight forward tweak providing you dont have to do a full on centre adjustment but an extra pair of hands makes it a bit easier.
Worthwhile doing a steering fluid flush and change while your at it.
Pull all the lines drain everything then do all the box adjustments. Put all the lines back, fill, bleed at the box, start, bleed while running and top up reservoir.
An hour at the most.
Andrew
I am not a moderator, I am a human being!!!
Mine was deadly on the highway,, change lanes like an F1,, and sometimes involuntarily/quicker!Had an alignment done, all within specs BUT! the wonderful tech took all the freeplay out of the steering box,, now it just changes lanes,,,
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Hey Kieren,
I took mine to Pedders in Joondalup before the warranty ran out for their $14.95 check, all good except one bush had the slightest little bit of play in it. He showed me which one and really had to force it to show me the play, since then I can feel it slowly getting worse from feedback through the steering wheel. Also not sitting quite on centre which it did before. Time to get some replacements.
Cheers,
Peter.
Last edited by FISHGUTS; 9th April 2011 at 09:28 AM. Reason: spelling
Check the ends on the drag link and track rod. Mine was quite bad and while have only changed the track rod it's a 1000% better. Mine was severely sagged (80mm down from std). Added new springs, lovells +50 (ordered std's) but received HD's (but don't have added weight bearing acces) so the lift was back to std and then another 80mm (+80mm from std, +160mm from where it was). Need castor correction, will get it done via bushes (terrfirma adj) but not go back to std, prefer it a bit more responsive. Also needs much longer shocks and new brake lines but will get there.
One thing I had which has unexpectedly fixed was RH lock was about 1/4 turn short of full (when compared to the left), the track rod seemed to fix that by about half, so I expect that replacing the drag link should fix the other half (2 x 2 ball joints each, replace 2 fixes half the prob so..)
Just replaced tyres with some BFG At's 265/85/16's they were free) and it's a much better ride, lifted another 45mm (kids now DO need a step ladder). Final thing that I found while inder there was the front ACE actuator bolt (at the front end of the vehicle) was loose, thought it was the bush at first but only the bolt (after ordering it of course).
Unfortunately ball joints can only be replaced at one end, but the assembly price is a fraction of buying all the components ($300+ vs $150-).
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