I have learn't that $180 to replace the FPR on a D2a is a very cheap price to pay for the labour.
No lost nuts, no lost skin, all nerves still intact.... :D
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I have learn't that $180 to replace the FPR on a D2a is a very cheap price to pay for the labour.
No lost nuts, no lost skin, all nerves still intact.... :D
Bringing up an old thread for the hell of it :p
After doing research on the FPR I have decided to bite the bullet and get it done by an indy LR/BMW specialist.
All up $495 with a 20k/1year warranty. AFAIK they use all genuine parts. I thought at first it was quite expensive but after dealing with the starter motor top nut before I did not want to deal with anymore Satan-related repairs. I also read people trying the DIY repair kit only to have it fail a short time later; also some bad stories about cheap FPR's off ebay.
For the cost of 2 hours labour I am happy to pay the $500; and it comes with the 20k warranty as well.
Repairer is Hunter Cuthill.
9 autumn street geelong west.
5229 4299, Adam is the guy you want to talk to.
Hopefully this helps someone else searching for FPR repair as I was.
I replaced mine because a genuine dealer when asked if he replaced the little "O" ring he said No, never needed to... don't even keep one in stock. if it don't leak it must be good:eek::eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by trevor
It's dead easy if you remove the inlet manifold first!!!
It then takes all day but you get to clean out the inlet manifold and more importantly the EGR butterfly if you still have one. And of course get yourself covered with the most noxious black crap that you can imagine. BTW it appears that the EGR butterfly cleanout has eliminated the on-off-on-off that I had on light throttle on the expressway.
If I were to do it again I would drain the cooling system and remove the fuel cooler first, and this would make it MUCH easier.
I just put an ebay kit through it ( which came with OEM o rings and the 2 gasket types )and I found the FPR had been replaced before and the leak was AFAIK from the gasket to head, as the top bolt was loose. The previous "mechanic" had put sealant on the FPR face which IMHO is a bad idea. It would have been a waste of money to buy a new FPR.
PS The inlet manifold on mine was quite loose and it may be my imagination but I think that the engine is smoother at 2250 revs than before, so either the clean out helped or the inlet may have been resonating.
Regards Philip A
$270+freight for a genuine FPR from Rovacraft Perth.
Definitely use longer studs to help keep the gasket aligned.
Don't do it when your 4 year old nephew is around..........you can't swear your frustrations away.
Went to remove the front wheel, found the tyre guys used the security nut socket on their impact gun and rounded it off. Had to use stilsens to get the nut off. Just about broke me haha.
Got hunter Cuthill to do it. 1.5 hours labour ($115 per hour) and like 240+gst for the fpr. For $200 and a warranty I didn't want the hassle. Thanks for the input guys :)
Revisiting this thread with my FPR personal development experience today which may help:
I bought this rebuild kit:
For Land Rover Discovery 2 Defender TD5 2.5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Repair Fix 747180984637 | eBay
Quality product, Bosch regulator, comes with all o-rings (including the thick one between FPR and engine block) and has gaskets for both types of FPRs so you can't go wrong. X8R also have a good youtube clip showing how to R&R the FPR and do the "rebuild".
I used a long ring spanner to knock the two top bolts loose. I accessed the bottom bolt underneath the front mudguard with three long extensions and a 10mm socket.
Getting the FPR back on was a bit more challenging than getting it off. Putting the bolts through the gasket and then a rubber band around the bolts certainly helps (once all bolts are started you can cut and remove rubber band). The two top bolts were a bit tricky to get started with the manifold in place - you need to get exactly the right angle. Once the top bolts were started, the bottom bolt (which is supposed to be the difficult one) was easy with the socket and extensions.
I made 2 locating pins by cutting the heads off 2 bolts that i bought just for this job. Screw the pins in far enough to be secure or till they stop - slide the gasket on the pins (leaving a couple of threads exposed on the pins will stop it sliding off the pins) - follow with the FPR body (with hoses removed) - hold in place and with free hand remove one pin and replace with an original bolt - repeat for the remaining pin. I put a”how too” post up with photos 4 maybe 5 years ago. I hope that it has helped someone.Quote:
Originally Posted by feraldisco
Last time I changed mine I also changed the rubber hose to the front so removed the manifold.
My car then had done about 200KK.
I wondered how flexible the old hose was and started to bend it. It snapped like a carrot.
So I advise anyone with quite a few Ks up to bite the bullet and change the rubber hose( on an EU3 engine)
Regards PhilipA
The hose on mine failed at around 110,000km.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
It became a Carpark fix outside Super Cheap, Raymond Terrace [emoji849]
So it is doable with the manifold still on, if you're desperate. But it's s manifold off job if you like to retain the skin on your knuckles [emoji23]