Reply With Quotedid you make the guide dowels?
There IS a reason I do all my demo stuff for the TD5 on the defender varient...
good drills, I know blokes that have taken longer than that to not get it done right.
Master
After leaking fuel through half of NSW & back to Brisbane I finally changed my fuel pressure regulator last Saturday. Thought I would share my experience for anyone interested. As I have a 2002 model with 3 pipes on the block I used parts of Blknight's tutorial here and part of this one from Discovery2.co.uk. Both are excellent and big thanks to both contributors.
Let me first preface my list with the fact that I am a total moron with mechanics.
Now to get back to the topic... Things I now know in no particular order of importance:
- Cheap ratchet spanners with more than 15 degrees of offset are worthless for this job.
- 1/4" drive extensions of 225mm & 150mm were worth their weight in gold for getting at the bolts.
- Karcraft were excellent in speed & efficiency in supplying new parts (approx $300). UK would have been cheaper but I didn't have the time to wait.
- To get the main fuel line to disconnect there is actually a little button on the collar at the end of the hose. Don't spend too much time like I did squeezing the hose and expecting it to release.
- The quick release hose to the fuel cooler will disconnect really easy if you first push the hose forward, then apply pressure to the collar with the 10mm spanner, and then pull back.
- The general design and placement of the FPR was created by Satan.
- There is a little shelf at the base of the engine but obsqured from underneath by the front axle/diff that will catch every tool, bolt & gasket you drop.
- Fortunately the gasket is made of metal and can be retrieved by magnet from the above hidey hole.
- You can make a mechanics magnet out of a very long screwdriver and your kids magnet set.
- Swearing excessively does not set a good example for your kids.
- If you've dropped one of the bolts for the 26th time and it's not on the ground or in the abovementioned hidey hole it has hit the chassis rail and rolled between it and the body.
- A head torch would have been very useful
- If a mechanic quoted $500 to do this job... I would pay it.
- All up it took me about 5 hours. Yeah I know 5 times Blknight's quoted timeframe which is not as insulting as it sounds as I am sure I'm not even 20% as qualified/skilled.
Anyway, the good thing is that they say pain is not a retained memory and that the car no longer leaks fuel.
RoverLord
did you make the guide dowels?
There IS a reason I do all my demo stuff for the TD5 on the defender varient...
good drills, I know blokes that have taken longer than that to not get it done right.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Wizard
i find it realy easy,,, to put the top bolt thru and put the gasket and hold it all to gether with a rubber band,, that way no maker wat u do its not all going to fall apart,,, then just cut the band once that bolts started,, then the other 2 are real easy to get started,
Good work DiscoCam,
I agree that "the general design and placement of the FPR was created by Satan"..
I got my TD5 back from the mechanic yesterday after we spent ages trying to fix it ourselves - and he charged about what you said - but it was worth it.
Heres hoping the car gets through a few months before another problem pops up!!
Again well done for sticking at it!
Steph
Hi guys
New to the forum but long time reader. I purchased a D2 td5 and had to replace the FPR. The dealership sold me the 3 tube version with a lug in it for one of the hoses. They said it was the same as the EU2 version. After 100km the FPR exploded and we only found out when we ran out of fuel as we drove home at 1am in the morning. Eventually I got a tow and took the part back and had it exchanged for the 2 hose version.
Just a heads up for people needing to replace this part, get the exact same version of the part to ensure the pressures are correct.
Cheers
Nigel
Hi all,
Like others, I'm new to the the LR family.. and have purchased my first Disco.
I recently took my new pride and joy, to what I thought was a promanant LR dealer, and adivsed that the Fuel Pump was on it's way out.. So I purchased a new one.. before I have had a chance to replace said fuel pump, I have now discovered a strong smell of diesel in the car, and have just noticed a very small patch of diesel under the front of the car..
My question is, would this be the FPR (Which acording to the log book, was replaced in 2008), or could it be resultant of a fuel pump problem?
Sorry if this seems to be a silly question, but will not learn, if I do not ask?!
Thanks in advance for any help
Stu
Master
Hi Stu
Generally leaks from the right had rear of the block are the FPR. They appear to be just a series of gaskets & a diaphram to regulate the pressure to the rail. Per the tutorial on www.discovery2.co.uk it would appear the design of the unit was changed to make it longer lasting. The one I recently fitted looked identical to the one removed so I suppose we have a lot of old stock in Australia and the updated ones may not be available. I think the unit I replaced was also a replacement as I'm sure the manufacture date on the part was newer than 2002 and the engine block lifting point had already been removed (and not replaced) so I don't think you'll be alone in requiring multiple replacements.
Good luck with it.
A great summary DiscoCam! I used a long handled 10mm open-ender for the top 2 bolts and as many socket extenders as I had in my tool box and went from underneath by the wheel for the 3rd bolt on the bottom. I had my Missus holding the socket in place. Twice she dropped the bolt on my head/face.
After all of that..... I find the regulator is defect and leaks..... Now I have to do it again. I wonder if my wife is still tolerent enough to help me again
Master
The FPR is different, but thats because the head is different as well in the later engines (15P) because the return fuel to the tank runs "outside" the head (in the long 3rd pipe) instead of "inside" in the cast drillings.Originally Posted by DiscoCam
Hi Stu
Generally leaks from the right had rear of the block are the FPR. They appear to be just a series of gaskets & a diaphram to regulate the pressure to the rail. Per the tutorial on www.discovery2.co.uk it would appear the design of the unit was changed to make it longer lasting. The one I recently fitted looked identical to the one removed so I suppose we have a lot of old stock in Australia and the updated ones may not be available. I think the unit I replaced was also a replacement as I'm sure the manufacture date on the part was newer than 2002 and the engine block lifting point had already been removed (and not replaced
Good luck with it.
Master
I also have to have the fuel pressure regulator changed.
Is there a reconditioned option? I heard of someone fixing theirs with o rings ?!?.
I also need to get the manifold gasket done on a TD5 so the manifold has to come off. Would this make swapping the FPR easier? Just thought that it might be easier to change the FPR with the manifold off.
Any thoughts from those who have gone before me?
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