worn bearing noise on TD5 idle

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Originally Posted by mattg

Fester, that is sooo good. and just what I needed. like it says, installing the fans is the easy bit. wiring them in is the tricky bit. What is the point though of a 2 speed fan. if the donk is hot enough for a Fan shouldn't it go flat out to cool it as quick as possible?

I'll be on the lookout for an EL fan.

Cheers

Matt

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I think their idea was to mimic the original Ford set up as that fan from memory was put into an older Ford model. I'm along the lines of your thinking that it is simplier and easier to just run them both together. In that scenario it is one sender and one relay (ignoring the ability to override for water crossing). If you want cheap and simple for water crossing you could simply have the wiring somewhere handy and unplug.

The idea of staged fans has merit as I guess as the temp just creeps over normal running temp the early stage can hopefully control and keep it about there, however if temps start to rise again then the second fan or full power can kick in and reduce temps. The crux of the instal either way would be getting a trigger device that can trigger exactly where you want. I guess the lower setting uses less electrical power and also maybe stops the temp from wildly peaking and troughing. I'm not sure if this would happen in practice but you don't want to trigger say just a bit higgher than normal operating temp to then have full fan power drop temps a good bit lower than normal shut off then temps climb again. Whereas the staged setup might have a better control in keeping the cycling temps much closer normal operating temp. For the cruiser example there was no double trigger sender that would operate close to the thermostat setting so I hadn't looked any further at this stage. The electronic sender units from Jaycar are cheap and would allow the exact setup one wanted.

Again however in real life I don't know how important all this is for the gains or otherwise. Simply setting up the full power way first would be the way to go and test from there. I don't use the Engine Watchdog temp gauge so don;t know if it has the capability but I have a digital temp gauge (and pyro) from the States that incorporates a settable alarm point and this has a trigger circuit than can be used for external switching so I could use this as a simple fan trigger circuit to test initially.

Mate, your best bet is to replace all 3 bearings and be done with it. Throw a new belt on while your at it.
Regards
Robbo

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Originally Posted by BIG O

Matt, I gave you a bum steer, actually I was sold the wrong bearing, it was cheap any way and will dropped in the bin.

The actual bearing you want is a SKF or other brand 3206 A-2RS Double row angular contact bearing. The bearing I mentioned previously a 6306-2RS will not fit in both outside dia and width, suggesting it's not double row angular. Sorry if this has caused any confusion. Landrover part number is ERR5285 and Rimmer Bros in UK have them for $99.92 Aus.

BIG O
03 D2 TD5 AUTO
99 D2 TD5 AUTO ACE
94 D1 TDI 3 DOOR (GONE)

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I have been looking a replacing the bearing in mine, I have found one on the net for $18. http://www.bearingsdirect.com/store/...t_detail&p=584

Does this look right?

I pressed the bearing out of a D2 Td5 idler (the ribbed one) yesterday. It might have been the pulley, ancillary drive. It was a 6303 - I can't remember the three letters after the no. but I can check later.

GATESY,
It would have to measure up the same as the original. The one you are looking at measures 23. 8 width. IS THIS TOO wide. The SKF is listed at 23mm. You would have to have them side by side and measure but it sounds great for the price.
If you google Rimmer Bros UK they have a picture of the actual bearing SKF 3206 A-2RS Double row angular contact bearing in the Landrover box. I've looked around and found a few possible alternatives, they have different angles on the bearings and some measure a bees dick different dimensions, but the common thing is they all cost a fair bit, meaning they are meant to last a long time. The cheapest I found was a JAF 5206-2RS at $55. The closest match to the SKF was a INA 3206-2RS $90 with a slightly different bearing angle.

I think if Rimmer Bros UK can only do the actual bearing for $99 and then you pay shipping, and I can get the right one through MR Automotive for $90 thats the way I will go. I want to be sure it will last another ten years at least.

Both fan support bearings on our TD5's have a grumble in them when you turn them by hand without the fan and belt. They both spin really easy. I have asked around and most mechanics say just to keep an eye on it. I guess if you can hear it over the motor noise you have to get it out fast.

My old TDI fan support bearing could easily be heard over the engine, but it kept going no problems.

BIG O
03 D2 TD5 AUTO
99 D2 TD5 AUTO ACE
94 D1 TDI 3 DOOR (GONE)

I dont need a new bearing. Turned out all my noises were comming from the uni joint on the front prop shaft. It was mangled and just about ready to fall apart. removed front prop shaft, and not more noises. So now off to get new uni joint.

For those interested in changing your fan support bearing. You may have to if you are up around 200,000km. If that bearing seizes and spins in the housing you have bit of work to do to get on the road again.

I Have now changed both our TD5 Fan support bearings and I ended up using two different bearings.. 3206 (Euro) & 5206 (Japan).

I have been given quotes by indi LR repairers. One bearing for $160 :o, one for $130:o. The original is a SKF 3206 A 2RS about $100 bought from the UK.

I ended up buying one bearing from MR Auto for $90. This turned out to be a KSM 5206 RS (Japan). I now know that I could buy the same bearing for $35 from CBC BEARINGS. :mad:

I bought my 2nd bearing from CBC for $50 a FAG 3206B 2SR (Italy) because they didn't have the KSM in stock. :)

The bearing just has to be double row angular contact with seals both ends to do the job. These bearings are built to last and it's said they have 10000 hour life span,, all I know is my originals were very low on grease, it ends up in the housing and were starting to rumble a bit when spun by hand.

So save yourself some money on a bearing and at least 2 hours labour at $200. Following the instructions in the forum makes it an easy job to do and peace of mind for at least another 200000kms.

Cheers
BIG O
03 D2 TD5 AUTO
99 D2 TD5 AUTO ACE
94 D1 TDI 3 DOOR (GONE)

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Originally Posted by BIG O

So save yourself some money on a bearing and at least 2 hours labour at $200. Following the instructions in the forum makes it an easy job to do and peace of mind for at least another 200000kms.

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I think I have a bearing noise when cold in my D2 TD5, might have to investigate it, what was the symptoms ???

Mine best I can describe has a sort of air blowing noise like someone blowing softly over a coke bottle or a low supercharger growl but disappears when warm, I have checked the manifold all studs and bolts accounted for but this is coming from the front of the engine.

And it has 285K on it.

Dazza

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Originally Posted by Dazza67

I think I have a bearing noise when cold in my D2 TD5, might have to investigate it, what was the symptoms ???

Mine best I can describe has a sort of air blowing noise like someone blowing softly over a coke bottle or a low supercharger growl but disappears when warm, I have checked the manifold all studs and bolts accounted for but this is coming from the front of the engine.

And it has 285K on it.

Dazza

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Hi Dazza

My noise was louder from under the front of the disco. I could tell my bearing was stuffed and moving in the housing as I could wobble the fan back and forth once I had taken the pressure off the belt.

Mine did 355km

Matt