Thread: V8 eng oil change questions

It is not necessarily the gas oils that have a higher zinc level.Diesel oils seem to be fine but only if the engine is presently clean internally/low kms due to the extra cleaning additives and the risk of dislodging any particles that presently could be preventing possible oil leaks or the chance of blocking oil galleries.Get on the Penrite site and go through their bulletins for some good information.The HPR10 gas states that it is suitable for petrol and diesel engines.

Have any of you read the Bob is The Oil Guy site?
Very informative .
I suggest you-all read it before discussing oils.
Welcome
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Have any of you read the Bob is The Oil Guy site?
Very informative .
I suggest you-all read it before discussing oils.
Welcome
Regards Philip A

Yes I have plus many other great articles on oil.Philip A you keep coming in with these 1 liners,whats the go there.We are just expressing our own experiences.Lighten up.

We are just expressing our own experiences

I am just trying to help spread helpful facts as I have done on previous threads. I am surprised that you appear annoyed that I have posted what is considered generally as the best oil education site on the internet. Your posts seem very sensible and agree with what Bob et all says .

I believe one fact is worth 1000 opinions and that threads like this can misdirect people who read them . I also started using HPR 30 for example when I first started on this forum based on what people had posted until I studied the subject .

For example I believe most would not use the extra heavy oils that Penrite seem to market as a Unique Selling Proposition if they read the expert appraisel of needed viscosities on BOB the Oil Guys Site (and others).
I know I changed my mind and now use max 10-40 or 15-40 as Dr Haas discusses in oils 101.
The MAKER of the car recommends 15-40 to max 20-50. Why second guess the maker and every other oil company and use HPR 30?? ,a 20-60 oil?

As I posted many years ago I once drove from Amman in Jordan to Riyadh in Saudi in one day in 1985, 1940Kms using what was then good oil Shell Helix 20-50 in 40-55C ambient temperatures with no ill effects in a RRC. No synthetics in those days. I did then compare as the oil light started coming on and I rebuilt the engine, when it turned out to be just the oil sender.LOL These conditions are far harder than in Australia.


My message I think from the start was not to stress about it as , that things like who has the most zinc are irrelevant as long as a quality oil is used and the oil is changed regularly with an oil grade recommended by the maker of the car.

I guess it is no big deal, as heavy oils will not HURT the car much, just increase start up wear and reduce fuel economy, but hey we are here to help, hopefully with facts.

Regards Philip A

Sorry Philip A.I had a rough day and It was just your comment stating that no one should comment until a certain web site was read that got me,it sounded like you were taking the micky out of the comments in this thread.I admit my knowledge on oil is limited but I always do my research first and have my own experiences over the years.I agree Bob the oil guy is a good site with some helpful information.I have been working on and modifying my own 4WD's for the last 24 years including 2 ground up rebuilds,1 being an old Daihatsu F10 that ended up being heavily modified with not much Daihatsu left except for the diffs and axles and body and the second a classic 2 door Rangie and my current project is a 95 V8 Disco.I have learned a lot in those years and still learning.I appreciate your input and everyone else on here and I do agree with you that some of the information can be a bit misleading.This is why I never take 1 comment as gospel and keep researching something until I am happy with my decision and would advise others to do the same.May all beings be happy.
Regards
Shane

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

If I remember correctly Shaun,,
(and it was a while ago---)
you are to "blame" for my D1's longevity,,,

Yeah you could be right
I've mostly only used 2 types of oil in 26 years of driving. BP Corse +, Dad worked at the Brisbane refinery, use to get dented 20l drums cheap, and Penrite. mostly used HPR 15 in winter and HPR30 in summer, in the Disco. I've run HPR in big $ engines and never had a problem. Jags stock and worked, heavily worked, holden red motors 6&8, Windsor V8s etc. Never had any issues. LR v8s are old school, even the later ones, thin oil is speced to type and get extra fuel econ, easier to pump around. PM make some high zinc oil to but it's $$$.

My brother has had a '93 3.5l V8 D1 since it had 30k on the clock.At300k he replaced the head gaskets as they had been weeping coolant for a few years.He took the cams to get checked for wear & they were good.It also uses around 1 litre of oil every 10k.

The only oil he ever used in the engine is the cheap Mobil oil from K Mart,changed every 10K.

I'd always used HPR30 for racing/performance apps and found it fairly without equal. But recently (last 5 years) used Brad Penn oils for all racing and high (10,000rpm + ) apps and it's fantastic. Just looked up its properties and it's well up their in the zinc & phosphorus levels. Zinc at over 1500ppm and phosphorus over 1300ppm. Hadn't looked at it's specific properties but the machinist/part builder (Wayne Smith Engine Research) recommended it. It's a bit more than ordinary oils but last time I purchased it was about $130- for 11.3 lt (12 x 1qt bottles) so at $11.50/lt it's probably on par with the more expensive oils. Good thing s the distributor is 5min away.

Can you go over the top with these levels? They have a note on their site as follows:

"Please Note:
Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils contain high zinc and phosphorous additive concentrations which can be detrimental to cars and trucks with catalytic converters. For our Brad Penn Synthetic Blend and Premium Passenger Car Motor oils more suitable for use in vehicles with catalytic converters"