Good job.
Better than paying someone to rip your wallet clean.
Now you can cut the webbing from the old manifold, and watch it magically straighten out again, and keep it for a spare.
Finaly got around to replacing my warped manifold and blown gasket yesterday. All the info to do it is on the rave CD except a warning to remove the turbo waste gate valve actuator solenoid before you unbolt the aircon compressor. There is a bayonete hose connector sticking up that can easily broken off as I did.
I had two studs that snapped off and were easily removed using left hand drill and easy out. I replaced all the studs and used an exchange manifold that had been planed and resurfaced.
I am an amateur mechanic and it took me 3 hours to dissasemble (including snapped studs) while reading instructions an hour to clean up parts and paint manifold etc and 2hrs to reassemble. I am very happy with the result have quite a sense of satisfaction from doing it myself.
I found the radiator over flow tube had gone brittle and snapped when putting it all back together and repaced this as well.
It is not a difficult job and if you get all the parts in advance should be able to do it in a day easy.
If yours hasnt gone yet be assured that it will between 100 and 200 k interesting to note the engine brass plaque states it was built in May 2001 ten years to the month.
Mike
Good job.
Better than paying someone to rip your wallet clean.
Now you can cut the webbing from the old manifold, and watch it magically straighten out again, and keep it for a spare.
Hi
When mine went i replaced them with high tensile studs and just machined the manifold!
Never given me a drama since, with an ECU UPGRADE
I thought of using high tensile or oversize (drill out & retap) . Two different workshops that have tried this both said that it will strip the thread and next time will need a helicoil. So I stuck with the standard studs. I am sure my ecu upgrade and the increased exhaust temp was partialy responsible for the warp but the increase in power is worth it.
My exchange manifold was machined and the webbing was drilled with a 12 mm bit. Aparently this helps reduce the warping.
Mike
Yep, if you don't mod the manifold, you'll just bust your new studs as well, even upsized studs won't hold.
Drill, cut or grind the webbing, slightly open all the stud holes on the manifold EXCEPT the centre two (these need to be left standard to locate the manifold properly). This allows for expansion, without putting sideways pressure on the studs and breaking them off.
I must be lucky
Ok, so I have the dreaded whistle as well.
I have managed to get the gaskets & nuts, but cant get hold of the studs until next week.
Now, I am going to have a good look tomorrow, but what I am wondering is, if I can remove the manifold, & replace the gasket, after doing the trick with the webbing, and the studs are all ok, do I actually NEED to replace the studs?
I have also read a few different thoughts on whether to use oversized studs or just replace with the same size. IF I need to replace the studs, I have decided that I will use the original sizing, as should the need arise again to do the gasket, I will have the option at that point of going up a size.
So, do I need new studs if the old ones are still there & ok?
For the few dollars it will cost, removing any potentially weakened studs will be well worth it.
As for oversized studs. I've even seen them break. Not worth the hassle and cost in my opinion.
Yea, that is what I was thinking.
Only catch is that it will have to be next weekend now before I get a chance to do it, after I get the new studs on Monday.![]()
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks