Thread: Arghhh - key detached from key fob!! (lost)

Yes
I was practicing the EKA procedure (with good spare) as my key fob failed... I couldnt get the EKA code horn to sound by turning and holding the key clockwise for 5 or more seconds. After repeated attempts the drivers lock seems to have jammed and failed and is no longer working!
Have ordered a new lock mech.
I did manage to repair the fob circiut board by dousing it in CRC contact cleaner.
I did find out that dead fob will start the engine even after the car was de-immolbilished for a short peroid before the red dash light starts flashing?
Happy days

Originally Posted by landyprincess

My husband said someone from work told him he could get one w/ the fob for around 130.00 or 180.00 (can't remember)... but generally speaking whats the price range others have had to fork out for a spare key/fob?...

Thanks

Lp

I bought a new key & Fob from Birtcar-UK, as you would be aware the price is on their site.

That aside I'm also pretty sure I have seen them for $85 on Ebay as well.

What is it with Land Rover owners who decide to sell their cars with only 1 key????

Regards
Andrew

mate,, I got 3 with the silver one

Thanks again for all your replies, all very useful and greatly appreciated...

There is a locksmith in the main centre where I took Lp when the ignition barrel was playing up so will take it there on Saturday to get some keys. I have the books that came w/ LP now so will be going over the finer details ....

Can anyone comment on whether it's a good idea or not to use WD40 on these areas and if so, or not... why, or why not...

1. on the mechanism that should lift up/down the door knob (I know its not a knob but not sure of its technical term)...

2. on the barrel/locking mechanism itself to unlock the door with key driver side?


Thanks again :-D

Lp

Originally Posted by landyprincess

Can anyone comment on whether it's a good idea or not to use WD40 on these areas and if so, or not... why, or why not...

1. on the mechanism that should lift up/down the door knob (I know its not a knob but not sure of its technical term)...

2. on the barrel/locking mechanism itself to unlock the door with key driver side?


Thanks again :-D

Lp

The mechanism for the door knob (assuming this is the lock button at the top of the door in line with the shoulder as you sit in the car) is actually called the door latch. I would recommend grease as that is what you'll find on it when, if you pull it out. If this is not coming up as it should then grease (or WD40) wont make a difference, you most likely need a new door latch (~$130 and 2 hours).

With regards to the key barrel I would not go near it with WD40. If anything I would recommend graphite grease. The locksmith will definitely stock this. I'm pretty sure this has been discussed on the forum elsewhere so hopefully someone should also confirm this. Pretty sure WD40 will do more damage than good.

Regards
Andrew

Do not use WD40 it goes sticky and makes things worse.

The stuff to use is called INOX. Aussie made to!

Search the threads for "sticky wafers".

Ihad them and needed locksmith via a call out to get me going one day and he included a can of the stuff in the job.This guy disassembled the steering column accessed the lock barrel, took that apart and filed and lubricated all the wafers then put it all back together , about an hour and $350.

Since then regular application has kept all locks sweet.

Ask a LR specialist service centre to recommend a locksmith that knows what they doing re LR it's cheaper in the long run

The girlfriends driver door lock would not work via remote and $200 later and a new lock still no joy so I gave the entire mechanism and links a squirt with INOX and hey presto all worked as new again

Great stuff".

Cheers


Ask a LR specialist service centre to recommend a locksmith that knows what they doing re LR it's cheaper in the long run

The girlfriends driver door lock would not work via remote and $200 later and a new lock still no joy so I gave the entire mechanism and links a squirt with inbox and hey presto all worked as new again

Great stuff".

Cheers

Originally Posted by Andrew D

Lp

I'm assuming you have learnt a lesson here. You need a spare key. By the way they are all cut different. We would be in a lot of brown stuff if they were all the same. The only thing that is the same is the blades.

Also looks like there was a race between who found the key first, was it Nankas then Basil or vice versa.

One other thing I have seen some dirt cheap Fobs (excluding the circuit board). I think there is one cheaper in HK. (I believe these are good prices).

Look at the last one folks.

LANDROVER DISCOVERY 2 TD5 NEW KEY FOB REMOTE CASE | eBay

ROVER 75 / LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 REMOTE KEY FOB CASE | eBay

Land Rover Discovery 1 & 2 Key Fob Replacement Button | eBay

Regards
Andrew

Thanks Andrew I have been searching high and low for just the casing or the rubber buttons. Land Rover Malaysia wants me to but an entirely new key/fob which would have involved tons of dosh and and at least a month to order it in from LR UK

Originally Posted by alpick

Do not use WD40 it goes sticky and makes things worse.

The stuff to use is called INOX. Aussie made to!

Thanks for the reply and sharing your experience with the lock... and thanks also Andrew for your feedback.

I was asking the question re WD40 and wanted to guage feedback as it was the SECOND RACV person who had used WD40 on my lock and door knob when he took the door skin off to investigate what the problem was that the first guy stuffed...

Aside from the door knob not lifting up nor down he has managed to do "something" to the lock so now I can atleast use the key, however... its not anywhere as smooth once the key goes in to unlock it as it use to be... but hey... the WD40 is just something else to bring up w/ the complaints manager now. I have a growing list of issues and concerns and the predicaments we could be in as a result, with 4 young kids any predicament isn't something I want to be in if I am out with them.

I spoke with my insurer also. If RACV end up being a bunch of shmucks and dont fix the damage they did (the least they can do is put it back to its original condition where everything worked like clock work = if they need to buy new parts then so be it)... my insurer said that they will 'certainly' follow it up.

So the saga continues.... i'll do some research on your tips below through the forum.

2 promised phone calls that the complaints manager will call me back have not been received as yet either :-(

Cheers,
Lp