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I just cant believe that this wasn't done as part of the service I've just had. If this is such a common issue and easy fix (for some anyway) than why have the 2, highly recommended LR specialist mechanics I've taken my car to not done it?
Makes me wonder....
Thanks mate.
G'day all,
Did mine at work today:angel:,must say it looked spotless and my air box seals perfectly with no dust at all down-line from the filter??.I only use genuine LR filters and have never had a issue;),tried K&N on my D1,never again:eek:.But back to the MAF,since it was out ,I gave it a squirt with contact cleaner,especially the two tiny wires on the center probe thingy and did the plug as well,then drove home.Well,it sounds a bit throatier and may have a little more response?,but the biggest difference so far is the exhaust smell:angel:,definately smells leaner and cleaner??,so I'll see how the economy goes,but well worth doing anyway as a routine service;)
Cheers Gregg;)
Mmmm seen this advice before..... However other sites list it as a kill it or cure it option.... Thought id try it last xmas...... Guesss what... I had to buy a new one as the maf died within 1 hour of spraying...... Beware!!!!!! My spray was from autobarn .... About $30.... Then the$200+ new sensor.......
James
Quote:
Originally Posted by twodoors
That was my thinking as well. If it aint, broke don't fix.
Could be a big rush on for MAFs shortly.
Obviously will come down to the cleaner, technique used and time.
Regards
Andrew
Sorry to hear that, But I suspect that your maf was going to die anyway!Quote:
Originally Posted by twodoors
I clean mine when I change my air filter td5, never had any proplems. I also clean a lot of other maf's for my customers and is one of the first things I go for when one of them seems to think that their vehicle is lacking a bit, that and filters.
maf's work on a hot film principle and need to be clean, even genuine filters on some vehicles let a lot of small dust through and the way the maf is designed to funnel a proportion of air through itself, crap does accumulate on the sensors surface. Then the signal sent back to the ecu will be incorrect and the fuel delivery will be incorrect, usually resulting in poor performance and a decrease in fuel economy. a dirty maf will die sooner than a clean one as the elemants run hotter as they retain to much heat. I'm not going to go into detail but would suggest that if your are concerned about your maf, try google or a workshop manual and find out how it really works.
mafs get dirty clean your maf, mafs die replace your maf, they work bloody hard and deserve some respect
db
They are meant to self clean by burning off on shut down in theory. Cleaning can kill them. They are delicate and sensitive.
I used to clean mine on my Falcon V8 every time the K&N filter was cleaned moreso because the oil on the filter would gum up the hotwire. A little squirt of contact cleaner and a very gentle brush with a cotton bud did the trick. I really cannot see it being any different for a Bosch MAF either but at longer intervals if you're using a factory spec dry filter.
if they self clean,
how come they get dirty?
Why do they make MAF cleaner?
Why do the vehicles perform much better after a MAF clean?
How do Kiwi farmers practice safe sex?
All these questions!
And why do some MAF's mysteriously stop working correctly after cleaning with MAF cleaner? That, alpick, is the $250 question.
Seriously, if we are simply spraying cleaner on two strips of metal - one tin, the other silver - what mechanism is causing some units to fail?