Are we sure that all post cleaning failures have used MAF cleaner?
Several postings indicate people will use whatever they think is suitable.
Anyway, my clean worked a treat.
Cheers
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Are we sure that all post cleaning failures have used MAF cleaner?
Several postings indicate people will use whatever they think is suitable.
Anyway, my clean worked a treat.
Cheers
Mine certainly was. I used CRC MAF Cleaner with care, and following instructions not to touch metal strips. Prior to cleaning car was running pretty well but there was a bit of muck on the sensors. After cleaning and then a further re-cleaning it was running like a dog. I ended up having to replace my MAF.Quote:
Originally Posted by alpick
So I ask the question again, if the process is safe and we are only cleaning two wire sensors why are we seeing MAF's that worked prior to cleaning in need of replacement afterwards? If the cleaner is safe on MAF sensors there has to be another cause. Do the seals around the sensors deteriorate and allow the cleaning fluid to deposit grime onto the circuit board for example?
All very interesting:cool:,I disconnected mine and there was very little difference in performannce??,does that mean it's stuffed (got no fault lights),or is it ok:angel:,when I replaced it last time it made no difference?.fault turned out to be the accellerator pot:eek:
Cheers Gregg;)
You won't get a fault light for the MAF but you will get a coded fault register in the ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3-Gees
If you can get your hands on a Nanocom, put it in instrument mode and check it's operation while running. Generally they die completely so the reading wont change. Tends to sit on a base reading of 4 when dead but if OK will show zero before starting and between 50-60 at idle.
Andrew
Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...
It is a question I will not need answering again..... Expensive lesson for me, especially as the MAF was running spot on 10mins before its fatal clean!....Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTrack
James
Thanks Andrew
Don't have a nanocom,but I'm heading South to Lithgow,via Maitland next week if anyone has one:angel:.The two times I've changed it,has made no difference really at all?,even unplugged??,is that unusual,or unplugged should it make a noticeable difference?
Gregg;)
Could cleaning a MAF that has just been running, (10 minutes before) and is still hot kill it?Quote:
Originally Posted by twodoors
It is a hot wire sensor and as someone mentioned they heat up even more on engine shutdown to burn off any crud. As we all know gas/ liquid under pressure is really cold ( can of MAF cleaner).
Hot metal usually doesnt like being rapidly cooled. Just a guess.....
If it's dead then no change plugged or unplugged. Mine being good results in ugly shifts and an actual loss of power when unplugged as the MAF weighs in on the shift pattern amongst other things. in a manual it's apparently a little different and some say it feels stronger but fuel usage skyrockets.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3-Gees
Would be happy to plug it in to my Nano but unfortunately you live on the wrong side of the country!
Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...
Thanks Andrew,
Mine being a manual,is probably right,when I unpluugged it I drove about 90km with a trailer and must admit it felt a little stronger,but I could see the fuel guage dropping:eek:,so mine might be OK?,but thanks for the offer,maybe on the next trip!
There might be something in cleaning them when hot?,a guy at work said they do stay hot for a while,and I cleaned mine when it was stone cold??......the plot thickens:angel:
Gregg;)
The D2 filterbox is a poor design.Its easy to miss-fit the filter lid allowing unfiltered air in.
Simple fix,buy a tub of rubber grease and grease the rubber seal on the filter.The grease will catch and dust and help seal the lid properly;);););)
CHEAP insurance.
Andrew