Thread: TD5 Head Questions

Ive not seen one done much deeper (enough to clearance a helicoil) than normal. The ones Ive seen have been rethreaded to the next size stud up or the appropriate helicoil for the normal size stud

Looking at the dead head in my garage, I think 10 to 15 mm deeper is excessive. I would be concerned about penetrating cooling or oil galleries. As mentioned previously helicoil is the best and strongest repair at original depth. Worth checking the stud is in straight also, or you will be slotting your manifold to get to fit also.

"My pockets hurt" (Homer)

Like Strangy said 10-15mm deeper is allot. Why wasn't the head pressure tested? Any descent operation would safeguard themselves by doing a test !!

On the Disco's I would much rather go to 10mm bolts and a cutaway manifold. The manifold is made for 10mm like on the def anyway and withstand the stresses much better imho. Why LR went for 8mm on a higher performance TD5 in the Disco only they would know....??

I'd tend to think it will probably be ok If it did go into an oil or coolant gallery the stud could be sealed with the appropriate locktite, as long as it doesn't intefer with flow especially oil, would have been a great time to upgrade to larger studs, also would be a good time to relieve the stess in the exhaust manifold ( you'll find threads about this ) and have it machined flat

db

Originally Posted by db65boxer

I'd tend to think it will probably be ok If it did go into an oil or coolant gallery the stud could be sealed with the appropriate locktite, as long as it doesn't intefer with flow especially oil, would have been a great time to upgrade to larger studs, also would be a good time to relieve the stess in the exhaust manifold ( you'll find threads about this ) and have it machined flat

db

Thanks for the tip, I did the manifold (stress relieved and machined) before the head came off.
Just for an update....As I was checking the head and cleaning it up a bit before it went back on, I had a look at the inlet ports. Lo and behold, the featherbrain that cleaned the head had washed all the crud from the inlet ports left by the EGR(removed over 12 months ago) sitting on top of the valves.
You could ignore this, put the head back on and hope that everything is ok.....The trouble is that if any of this crud sticks to the valve, which is highly likely, the valve(s) will burn, not immediately, but within about 6 months.
I returned the head and it was inspected by a sheepish looking mechanic while his peers were looking on. I get to start putting my motor back together on Tuesday instead of now.
A word of warning. Don't expect a Land Rover authorized dealer workshop to do a good job and double check anything that you pay someone else to do.

Cheers,

Jason

Originally Posted by Jason789

Thanks for the tip, I did the manifold (stress relieved and machined) before the head came off.
Just for an update....As I was checking the head and cleaning it up a bit before it went back on, I had a look at the inlet ports. Lo and behold, the featherbrain that cleaned the head had washed all the crud from the inlet ports left by the EGR(removed over 12 months ago) sitting on top of the valves.
You could ignore this, put the head back on and hope that everything is ok.....The trouble is that if any of this crud sticks to the valve, which is highly likely, the valve(s) will burn, not immediately, but within about 6 months.
I returned the head and it was inspected by a sheepish looking mechanic while his peers were looking on. I get to start putting my motor back together on Tuesday instead of now.
A word of warning. Don't expect a Land Rover authorized dealer workshop to do a good job and double check anything that you pay someone else to do.

Cheers,

Jason

AMEN!

Glad that you picked it up in time. Could have ended up very messy after a little while, and you can guarantee that it would be at the worst possible time...

At least they saw the error of their ways, and have made amends.

BTW - are they fixing or replacing the head???

Hello Basil135,

I checked the exhaust stud. It appears to be a standard stud +10mm. I am unsure at this stage as to whether it is a regulation type repair(I intend to do some further investigation into this subject).
As for the valves, the mechanic said at the time that it was a 3 or 4 hour job to fix. I understood that he was going to remove the valves and clean them properly. But who knows until the goods are returned.

Cheers,

Jason