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Here I go again writing this stuff late at night!
I did Option A (Just the faulty PCB pins) not the full option B. Option B is a bit obvious and not as neat as it involves cutting and splicing of wiring connectors, and the use of a reliable earth point. Sure it works but I would be reluctant to do this one as there is FAR more scope for a problem due to so many wiring joins etc and therefore more chance of liability.
Sorry for the confusion folks...:o
JC
Option B is as obvious and as neat as you want to make it. I crimped and soldered almost all the connections. (wire to wire, wire to crimps, and plenty of heat shrink). Used a fancier water tight connection, looks like any other part electric layout of the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
When I did option B I didn't remove the modulator from the car, just removed the holding points and this was enough room to place a allen key in the SVS and job done. No need to remove brake lines etc.
Most importantly it works.
Regards
Andrew
Yes I did it in the vehicle, much better way, unnecessary I think removing the whole unit for these little jobs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew D
I would say yes it is wholly dependent also on the skill of the repairer as to the finished result re quality soldering and neatness.
JC
The lights might be out, but if they did an OBD scan??? (But they would need a Nanocom or similar)
I've done option B and the result is an error free scan of the SLABS by nanocom.
No way it can be detected electrically as it repairs the problem.
AND if you dont fix it there will be a record in the error logs of when it occurred should any insurer be that investigative, or more likely, the cops investigating a fatal prang.
As Justinc says you are not altering the mechanics of the modulator, just repairing the wiring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsperka
No, they wont find anything because there is nothing to find!:bangin:
Option B is simply a different way to do option A, which simply saves replacing the whole solenoid pack! Its just a wiring reroute.
It is no different to replacing a damaged wire on a brake light, headlight, fuel pump, ABS sensor (how many have had this done?) Dont hear any squeaking about insurance with these.
There are no mods to the function of the system whatsoever.
Next people are going to panic and suggest the wiring loom will have to be replaced if the plug to the ABS pump breaks because it isnt a factory replacement!
Option B can be detected VISUALLY.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
It's a big, ugly band-aid, not a repair. I reckon that is going to be an excellent indicator of vehicles that have had short cuts taken with their maintenance for future D2 buyers.
Option B cuts existing wiring, adds in external wiring, bypasses internal connection, adds a number of extra solder joins in wiring, plus crimp fittings. As the Option B tutorial indicates the extra ground wire is itself a point of failure.
Option A fixes the cause of the problem, -one possibly two cracked solder joins - and doesn't alter the modulator in any, functional or visible way.
Option A FTW.
one could also argue upgrade headlight looms alter the OEM specs of a vehicle, lifts, using poly bushes instead of OEM etc etc. Would the insurance knock back a claim? or do we list Shuttle valve mods in our list of mods included in policyQuote:
Originally Posted by Marmoset
This is turning into a classic.
Option A is in effect the equivalent to ripping the gizzards out, hacking them up, then throwing them back in.:D
Do we honestly car that much about how it looks. We drive D2's (At least I have a slightly more appealing D2a :p)
Regards
Andrew
Gee I only mentioned the joy i had after fixing one quickly and cheaply, why does this have to degenerate??? :confused:
Both options are a go, i just preferred the A one due to the simplicity of it, and no external wires to draw attention to the fix. I'm sure it could be done neater than the pics but there you go, each to their own.
JC