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Thread: Electric brake Controller Qs

  1. #1
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    Question Electric brake Controller Qs

    Hi All,

    recently bought a jayco camper, it weighs about a ton and its got the electric brakes set up on it but my disco doesn't.

    So i got me a Tekonsha P3 controller and i was wondering if anyone out there can give some advise on:

    1- where to connect the red 'stop light cable'
    2- where to grab the 12v power from,(i was thinking to just parallel it with the 2-way)
    3- whats the best route for blue cable to go to the rear of disco and to connector
    4- where did you guys mount your units??

    Any help much appriciated
    cheers

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by takdturk View Post
    Hi All,

    recently bought a jayco camper, it weighs about a ton and its got the electric brakes set up on it but my disco doesn't.

    So i got me a Tekonsha P3 controller and i was wondering if anyone out there can give some advise on:

    1- where to connect the red 'stop light cable'
    2- where to grab the 12v power from,(i was thinking to just parallel it with the 2-way)
    3- whats the best route for blue cable to go to the rear of disco and to connector
    4- where did you guys mount your units??

    Any help much appriciated
    cheers
    G'day,

    I mounted my Prodigy a few years ago, so this is a little hazy.

    1) I think I got the stop light signal direct from the back of the brake switch at the pedal using a scotch-loc.

    2) Find a decent power feeder. The unit has a 40A fuse from memory, so your power source needs to be capable of at least that much or you may find yourself with no electric assist when you really need it.

    3) I found an 16 (?) AWG wire running from the passenger foot-well, to the RH tail light (where the trailer connector wiring plugs into the disco loom if you have a factory setup) I don't recall what exactly it was supposed to feed, but pinching it for the brakes has shown zero symptoms. Maybe it was for the Fuel burning heater ?

    4) I used self tappers into the kick panel under the instrument cluster, but it touches my shins and annoys me. Ensure your controller controller does not need to be mounted horizontal - many of the old ones won't work properly if they aren't flat.

    5) Make sure the white earth wire on both sides of your trailer connector are heavy enough for the peak currents.

    Pete

  3. #3
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    Planning to do (Tekonsha P3) this myself sometime and my thoughts so far;
    1. Tap into brake switch at the green/purple wire with a T-tap or scotch lock but man it looks a bugger to get in there.
    2. Run the battery power and earth and blue wire through fire wall at the large rubber grommet which has a little nipple that can be cut off but may need enlarging as planning to use 6mm wires.
    3. Battery power can be run from engine fuse box or + bat terminal through a 20A auto contact breaker and earth to earth points in engine bay or -ive bat term.
    4. Blue wire to rear under the body through chassis holes ,all neatly through that black tubing and up to behind right tail light where my trailer plug loom starts and has a pretty blue wire hanging out of it with a male terminal attached, im hoping thats for electric brakes.

    My plans so far.
    Steve
    2016 SDV6 SE Graphite "Pearl"
    2003 td5-Auto--- sold
    1992-200tdi Man---gone.

  4. #4
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    Oh, and a useful source of 40A fused power is the electrically heated seat wiring. You do need to enable the seats in the BCU using a Nanocom or equiv. But then you get decent gauge feeders that are relay controlled to come on with Acc. and Ign. positions.

  5. #5
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    velcroed to the top of the dash, rightside of the instruments.
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
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    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter5111 View Post
    Oh, and a useful source of 40A fused power is the electrically heated seat wiring. You do need to enable the seats in the BCU using a Nanocom or equiv. But then you get decent gauge feeders that are relay controlled to come on with Acc. and Ign. positions.
    Sorry Pete,
    But by law the wiring needs to be controlled by an auto re-setable circuit breaker. If an accident would happen & be found that the caravan is not protected via the Electric brake controller properly it is an out for the insurance company.

    Black.. +ve direct to battery via circuit breaker.
    White.. -ve direct to battery.
    Red.. Brake light pick up-from under dash area as said Green wire with Purple trace. At brake light switch.
    Blue..Variable voltage feed to pin no. 5 on the trailer plug.

    Cheers Hope this helps

  7. #7
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    Well, there you go.. Always happy to be corrected if I am wrong. Don't suppose you have a link to where that is legislated ?

    I wonder how many installations don't use a self-resetting breaker ?

    I actually use the seat heater wiring to power a pair of HF radio's. I really should revisit my installation and document the wiring properly.

  8. #8
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    Pete,
    I see these things just about daily, some auto sparky's don't realize what is required these days & continue to fit the old style way.

    The pick ups for the CB from the seat heater is not a problem & if done correctly & fused with an appropriate fuse to protect the wiring then I could say we have all done that. There Is even a Pick up under the front from the heated screen plug in the upper wiper tunnel.

    Will see if I can hunt down the official paperwork.

    Cheers

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniegy View Post
    Pete,

    Will see if I can hunt down the official paperwork.

    Cheers
    Any further news on a link to the legislation ?

    Pete

  10. #10
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    I can't remember where I saw it legislated, but I've always been on the understanding that it is that way - e.g. circuit breaker etc.

    It's the way I wire up all of the installations I have done.


    Cheers
    Chris

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