D2 td5 and lack of power on hills

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Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

4 things.

1. Waste gate isnt broken. Actuator rod maybe badly adjusted or its sticking.

2. When you say no power at 3000rpm. What are you expecting? I don't mean that in a cocky sort of way, but remember the 'red line' isn't much past there and the power curve of a standard td5 map is well on its way back to 0 by 3000rpm.

3. How was 6psi at 3000rpm determined? Did you/the mechanic simply rev the engine and measure? If so that's why you only got 6psi, the engine needs to be under load to deliver boost.

4. Another map is not the solution (unless some one has tried to re-map it previously and f*****d it up (wouldnt be the first time I'd seen that). You need to fix the base issue (if there is one) first and get the engine running right.

Will be interesting to hear what Justin says. Taking it to someone who knows his stuff (justin) is your best bet.

Jon.

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Thanks for the reply Jon
How do you check the wastegate actuator/rod or sticking, this is new to me

we have a hill comming home from town and is long and farely steep at 110kph, we can get to around 90 by the bottom but as we climb she just wont go you sit on around 3000rpm in 3rd and sits on 80 ish, she used to climb at 100 no problem, even on flat to over take its hard to get over 100kph and 3000rpm, you can do it but i do not like to do it as to me its flooging an engine for no reason.

6PSI i think the mechanics did it with a diagnostic ? i can not remember wich diag machine that was used.

Yes i dont know very much about these things but from what i have been told and hear a flash would mean nothing if its a mechanical fix and the flash would be usless untill properly fixed and also an un warranted cost.

Totaly agree i think Justin is the correct person to be looking after her for us, but in the mean time if you could give some feedback/info on the wastsegate i could check it out and if it is i could let Justin know so as when i take her down he could have the relivant parts ready :D

Another thing Jon the engine & ecu are stock mate nothing has been modified to date and we have owned her since new

I dont s'pose even St Justin opens on a Sunday;):p

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Originally Posted by MarknDeb

How do you check the wastegate actuator/rod or sticking

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Removing the clip and pin from the wastegate actuator rod allows the wastegate to be moved easily by hand if its not frozen. If you have compressed air available with a nozzle, providing some air pressure (eg 25 psi) into the tube that goes to the wastegate actuator should operate the actuator. If it doesn't move then the wastegate is frozen or the wastegate actuator is dead or both, which often occurs when the actuator dies leaving the wastegate unused. However the wastegate would have to be stuck partly open to reduce power.

If you've had the car from new then thats a big help - you know whats been done and what hasn't!


The attached pic shows the circlip you need to remove (at the end of the actuator rod) to allow you to manually move / free the butterfly mechanism.

It will likely move and feel sticky, particularly at the end of its travel. You need to move it back and forth until it can move freely with very little effort through its full travel.


Also, re MAF, ask justin to check the flow rate its recording through the ecu, that could be fubarred as well.

Does the car go well enough on a flat road, or does it struggle to get up and go all the time?


Re the fuel pump: Do you run it around town for the majority of the time on 1/4 tank or less? In the UK the fuel pumps tend to fail with farmers because they never have full tanks! If the tank is always filled up when empty rather than the owner just throwing $20 a time in the fuel pumps never / VERY rarely give a problem.

J

You don't have to bother with the circlip, well I didn't. If you have some mole grips / vice grips just put them on the blank (non-threaded) part of the actuator rod and work it by hand.

I had similar (but not identical) power issues for a while, not too sure what the culprit was in the end but a combination of cleaning the MAF, cleaning the input manifold pressure and temp sensor (single sensor, 2 min job, was pretty filthy / blocked with gack) and working the wastegate actuator seemed to sort it out. For the waste gate actuator I sprayed some WD40 in there too - was hard to shift at first but then freed up.

BTW a good MAF should return you readings of arround 54 to 56 (forgot units M3/hr?) at idle. If you can to a noanocom (or similar) that will give you some clues and you can test under load too.

Good luck. Under-performing engine is a PITA.

Ian.

kg/hr Ian :)

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I dont s'pose even St Justin opens on a Sunday;):p

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Mate i felt bad enough about using up his time on the phone asking questions, it will be good to meet the fellow face to face for once. :D

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Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

If you've had the car from new then thats a big help - you know whats been done and what hasn't!


The attached pic shows the circlip you need to remove (at the end of the actuator rod) to allow you to manually move / free the butterfly mechanism.

It will likely move and feel sticky, particularly at the end of its travel. You need to move it back and forth until it can move freely with very little effort through its full travel.


Also, re MAF, ask justin to check the flow rate its recording through the ecu, that could be fubarred as well.

Does the car go well enough on a flat road, or does it struggle to get up and go all the time?


Re the fuel pump: Do you run it around town for the majority of the time on 1/4 tank or less? In the UK the fuel pumps tend to fail with farmers because they never have full tanks! If the tank is always filled up when empty rather than the owner just throwing $20 a time in the fuel pumps never / VERY rarely give a problem.

J

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Thanks Graeme and Jon, i now have something to do firt up tommorrow on my first day off this week :D

If the wastegate test turns out ok, i will let Justin know you mentioned to check the MAF's air flow rate.

Mate the car is the same as allways has been going from 0 to around 70 then is just loses the puff, when highway it takes a while to get to 100 but she can sit on 100 ok as long as you dont try to accelerate.

The fuel tank is filled up every fortnight we never put $20 in now and then Deb doesnt even like to go under half ("she drives HER car all the time not ours hers :angel:)

With the above info re 0-70 I'd be a bit surprised if its the waste gate.

If the waste gate is sticking then you would experience the lack of power anytime you need the boost, ie somewhere between 0-70 when your right foot demands it.

I'd be more inclined to think dead MAF as that would be more speed related, ie faster you go more air you need to be sucked in and the more the ecu needs to fuel accordingly. If the MAF is dead it won't fuel enough for the amount of air being sucked in.

Justin will be able to plug it in and confirm in a few seconds if MAF is dead.

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