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Thread: Dual battery setup - 2004 D2 TDI

  1. #21
    Fairsky Guest
    Franz,

    Hello.

    You could well be right with regards the heat from the turbo. In that case I would buy the Aedofab tray and put both batteries together rather than take up space in the back.

    Best regards,

  2. #22
    Join Date
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    As far as the turbo goes, yes it is a significant source of heat and "unprotected" lead acid batteries may well suffer......

    The thing with the Aedofab tray is it was designed around a V8 (as there is no TD5's in the US), which has no engine ECU in the same location as the TD5..........and although its not that protected where it is in the factory "box", its better than being just slapped on the back of the rear plate of that aedofab tray.

    Prolly not a big issue, but putting on the passenger side also spreads the weight evenly.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Urban Panzer View Post
    As far as the turbo goes, yes it is a significant source of heat and "unprotected" lead acid batteries may well suffer......

    The thing with the Aedofab tray is it was designed around a V8 (as there is no TD5's in the US), which has no engine ECU in the same location as the TD5..........and although its not that protected where it is in the factory "box", its better than being just slapped on the back of the rear plate of that aedofab tray.

    Prolly not a big issue, but putting on the passenger side also spreads the weight evenly.
    That and the cost was what put me off - I would have had to replace my starter as well. I did investigate using my existing starter and mounting the auxilliary next to it but it just won't work.

    The other reason for mounting it in the rear was that I could use a larger capacity battery - 55AH limited the amount of time I could spend in the bush without driving to recharge the battery. I would have like bigger but having more weight behind the axle limited me to a 75AH battery - I did not want more than 23kg back there.

  4. #24
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    Ive got a V8 and have blown 2 batteries over the last 3 years or so. I would recomend having it anywhere but up the front. It is interesting about the optima though. I have often wondered if i could mount one up next to a chasis rail. Lots of space down there, i could protect it somehow and it wouldnt take up any space in the rear. Anyway its just a thought.

  5. #25
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by timdo1 View Post
    Ive got a V8 and have blown 2 batteries over the last 3 years or so. I would recomend having it anywhere but up the front. It is interesting about the optima though. I have often wondered if i could mount one up next to a chasis rail. Lots of space down there, i could protect it somehow and it wouldnt take up any space in the rear. Anyway its just a thought.
    I was just thinking the same.
    They have sill tanks so why can't a battery tray and cover be made to sit underneath in the chassis rails.

  6. #26
    charlesquetta Guest
    In 2006 I contacted the former Landrover Special vehicles division in UK about fitting a second battery. His reply was that the best position (for Police, Military and Mountain Rescue Discos series 2 for a second battery was in the near side rear luggage locker (or take out the drop down seat if it was the seven seater). This gives easy access for replacement, a cool location and short runs to equipment. In the end I put it in the off-side locker (found a cheap second hand one I could play with) after removing the panel and cutting out the bottom. The battery is in a home made lockdown cradle using stainless threaded rod. It is a Full River 120amp gel battery and was cheaper from a solar panel shop rather than a 4x4 shop by over $60. The controller sits alongside it and I have a pair of Anderson leads attached to each side so that I can jump start in an emergency. The locker now has a new false bottom and is about half the original volume. So far I have fully flattened the battery at least three times and it is still in perfect condition. Every so often (when I remember) I do a reconditioning charge with my CTEK charger, I think it is the 7500 model. There is a much wider option of controllers now than there was then so spend well. The solar shop told me that as a rule of thumb, the wire in the cable needed to be as thick as a pencil.
    I have also just bought an inhibitor switch on the net from UK delivered $535 compared to $940 from Aussie dealer! Ironically a pom would have paid more as the VAT is 20% (for UK, zero for export) and more than covered the postage. Good luck

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