Thanks Dav - dont suppose you know what codes she was throwing when the lights were coming on hey?
Cheers
From memory once the connector is off you carefully remove the yellow capping inside the connector as shown in the pic. Once the capping is off it will become clearer.
You need to get a tool that is very fine. I have propper terminal removing tools however you could probably use a needle or fine split pin if you know what I mean. You will see when looking at the terminal from the inside with the yellow cover removed where the locking tab for the terminal is. Once the locking tab has been depressed with the fine tool the terminal will pull out of the connector block from the back of the connector (towards the engine so to speak). I have no doubt that you will feel the forward and backward movement of the terminal.
The terminal locking tab will depress easier with the terminal pushed into the connector as it takes the pressure off the locking tab. Once you are happy it is depressed leave your fine terminal tool in place and pull the wire gently out of the back of the connector, pulling the wire and terminal clear of the connector for inspection.
Note : It is not abnormal for the terminal to move a small amount inward and outward when fitted to the connector and the connector pushed onto the pump. However if it is very easy to move in and out you can assume that the male and female sides of the terminal are not a firm fit.
Hope this is all clear, its a bit hard to describe. Oh and be carefull if you are going to do this as I don't want to be held responsible for anyone bastardising their connector trying to get the terminal out of the connector.
Good Luck
Thanks Dav - dont suppose you know what codes she was throwing when the lights were coming on hey?
Cheers
Yeah it was the normal shuttle valve code which indicates that the shuttle valve assembly needs replacing. Thats why I just replaced the shuttle valve assem first and it didn't fix it. Thought I had better diagnose properly after that and found the poor connection at the wire preveiously mentioned.
If you want the exact wording of the code on the nanocom let me know, I think I save it on the flash card. Or I can just get the car to make the code for you.
Cheers, Dave
I did option B about 2 years ago and so far have no problems (2000 v8)
It got silly - throwing 3 amigos on after a few minutes on each trip. Throwing the right codes to warrant option b. Option b done no faults for a week. Wet road and ABS works fine. It's a repair or fix not a modification as I see it. Cheers
Did option B in May this year after 2 weeks of the 3 amigos almost every day. No amigo lights on since.
My 4y/o boy regularly asks about the poor old amigo lights that don't amuse him when driving anymore?
Oh and he still gets into almost every different car and asks the driver "does this car have the amigos".........we know what he means![]()
I'm another fan of option B. Done 18 mths ago and no amigoes since.
As far as insurance goes, my understanding is you should be ok if whatever damage your claiming for would have happened if you had done option B or not. Otherwise you couldn't even claim for a broken windscreen.
If you have modified the vehicle ( in any way) and have not notified the insurer then under the reasonable disclosure conditions there may be grounds for refusal of claim
(thats if they even notice the work was done!!).
I had to look into this a while back and it seemed to be that the claim might be refused if the cause of the damage was something not reasonably disclosed. Not telling the insurance co. about any kind of mod at all doesn't give them a right to knock back every claim especially if it has no connection with the mod.e.g a broken windscreen or getting rear ended at the lights The other handy thing to know is if you are scrapping with the insurance co. you can refer the issue to the Insurance Ombudsman for a decision. Had a mate who did this with a refused travel insurance claim and got his money.
Option B is repair. Not a mod. Insurance won't be compromised.
Fitting a Modulator or sensor from different vehicle( I. E not fitted from factory to D2) is a mod and then would cause insurance scrutiny.
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