Cruise control wiring for spotlights.

**stallie** · 18th February 2012, 10:35 PM

I'm putting an set of IPF 800s onto the disco and have acquired a cruise control switch to invert under the fog light switches. What I want is the button to be depressed and the led illuminated when the spotties are on.

The connector has 4 wires coming from it. The wiring diagram shows C0749 which is what I have but it doesn't tell me what goes where.

1 green
2 red
3 nothing
4 yellow/white
5 black

What should I wire to where to achieve this. Black, I assume is earth and Red from battery...

I'll be connecting to a standard wiring loom with relay and fuses.

Cheers.

**slug_burner** · 19th February 2012, 12:14 AM

I think it is time to get the multimeter out.

57rsquared · 19th February 2012, 09:25 AM

Some of the colors are different, but this might be of some help using the cruise control switch for the lights:

www.discovery2.co.uk** Driving / Spot Lamps

I found it looking for a repair to the original setup, but now I'm working on a latching relay circuit to use the original momentary switch with a regular 30amp lighting relay. Bought the parts and a board, just need to assemble and test.

Ron

**biggin** · 19th February 2012, 09:45 AM

I maybe barking up the wrong tree here, but I am looking at using the existing unused momentary fog light switch to operate my new driving lights.
I think all that is needed is to fit a relay into the empty spot in the fuseboard, then enable the foglight function using a nanocom.
This relay will then operate the high current relay that I bought with the new lights.
That's the plan anyway. Now to do some homework

.

**clubagreenie** · 19th February 2012, 08:46 PM

Won't the relay to fit into the fusebox need to be a latching relay so it stays on with only a momentary switching current? Do they make these to fit the "standard" relay base pattern, and if so where does one obtain?

**biggin** · 20th February 2012, 11:51 AM

My thinking is that the momentary switch is connected directly to the ECU, which then pulls in the relay when conditions are right i.e. headlights are on etc, so no need for a latching relay.
As I said, I maybe barking up the wrong tree.
I haven't had time to look at this yet, but that is my understanding.

**Pinelli** · 20th February 2012, 08:31 PM

I tried tot go down this path and wasnt able to source a latching relay. Could have designed a little flipflop circuit but ended up pinching the headlight switch and surrounds from a D1, where the ashtray was in my D2.

**waz** · 20th February 2012, 10:04 PM

(Red with brown trace) and (Green with blue trace) to high beam power - just tap it from the back of the headlight.
Black to earth
(White with yellow trace) to relay.

Waz

**biggin** · 21st February 2012, 06:57 AM

RAVE manual says:
Front Fog Lamps Description
The front fog lamps are controlled by a non-latching switch located on the left
hand side of the instrument pack. Two front fog lamps are located below the
front bumper. Front fog lamp operation is monitored by the Body Control Unit
(BCU) which only allows the front fog lamps to operate when the side lamps or
headlamps are on.
When the side lamps, headlamps or ignition is turned off, the front fog lamps
are extinguished. When the side or headlamps are switched on again, the front
fog lamps will not operate until reselected using the switch. If the rear fog guard
lamps are switched on, switching off the front fog lamps will also switch off the
rear fog guard lamps.
The front fog lamp switch is illuminated when the side lights are switched on.
Each front fog lamp bulb is rated at 21 Watts.

So I should be able to use the fog light relay in series with a tap off the high beam circuit, to make the momentary switch work for driving lights.

**stallie** · 25th February 2012, 10:10 PM

Spent the day in the garage and got to the bottom of the wiring, so I thought I'd share the info for the less electrically minded amongst us. I had an old IPF wiring loom that I modified.

I inverted the cruise control switch and placed it under the fog light switch, but had to shave 1mm off the ridges on one side so it would come out again. I havent bothered to change the front logo as I'm happy with the inverted highway symbol, it kind of looks like you're lighting up the road ahead

I removed the instrument facia - a two minute job - to access the wires behind the binnacle switches. Just note what looms/multiplugs are where (use tape or write on them)

I sent the Green wire to join the blue and orange wire (highbeam power) at the back of the RH headlight. This powers the switch (and ultimately the relay) but only when the high beams are on.

I sent the white/yellow wire to the spotlight relay with 2 amp fuse in the line This thin yellow wire sends the signal to the relay to shut the connector that then completes the (separate) circuit from battery to lights using heaver gauge wire.

Both these wires i sent thru the grommet upper right in the drivers footwell.

The red wire i found is the power for the dull green illumination that all the instruments get when the lights are on.

And the black is earth.

These last two I looked in detail at trying to connect them into the illumination and earth headers but you can't seem to undo them easily which is a shame as they are conveniently behind the instrument panel. There re some empty slots in them, but in the end I just spliced into the red/brown wire and the black wire from the unused (but wired) binnacle switch below (bottom one on left) A little messier than I would have liked but all out of sight.

So now, When you turn the lights on, the switch glows green. When you turn low beams on and press it, nothing. When you turn high beams on and then depress it, the spotties come on and the little amber LED to tell you they are on. Press again, spotties off.

Hope this helps.

Finally, I found that some of my looms didn't exactly match any model years/ countries in RAVE. It all looks original though.

Thread: Cruise control wiring for spotlights.

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Cruise control wiring for spotlights.

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