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Thread: Looks too cheap???

  1. #1
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    Question Looks too cheap???

    Hi team,

    Girlfriend has got me into 4wding (can you believe that!). Been searching around for ages for the right Rig, originally going Japanese for the perceived reliability.... But I knew deep down I needed to go Land Rover. Have been reading up on the Disco 2 in the forum here for some time and was wondering if I could tap into some of your expertise.

    I prob should go TD5 but cant go past V8. Not alot on the market to choose from however have come across this;

    1999 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY (No Badge) II SUV Private Cars For Sale in SA - carsales.com.au

    This is the description on the add; Rarely used off road. Female driver. Full service history. Wants smaller car, kids have grown up.

    Right. So car looks clean, but as im a total noob I dont know exactly what to look for when going for an inspection/drive. What sort of questions would you guys be asking if you were looking to purchase this?

    Anything you can assist me with here would be greatly appreciated!

    I imagine full fluids, Engine, Trans, Diffs, brakes would be required!

    Eventually id be looking at 2inch lift, 33's, exhaust and maybe one of those Haltech piggyback ECU's.

    Also can anyone recommend a trustworthy LR mechanic in SA?

    Thanks in advance

    nico
    Last edited by xenomorph; 31st March 2012 at 01:09 AM. Reason: bad title

  2. #2
    ajv1971 Guest
    Hey there,
    I just bought my first land rover recently, 2000 V8 with 250,000k's on it.
    Good solid car but has some issues with transfer case rumbling, i have since found out and still getting to the bottom of that...........
    I paid $6500 for mine, a very similar car but spent $1000 on a bullbar so the price is about right. Diesel would be a little dearer.
    I also fitted 2" lift and new shocks all round. ($1000)
    Definitely needs to be inspected before purchase. Oil leaks will be more than likely be from Rocker cover seals, rear main or cooler line couplings next to the radiator. Just about anywhere on these girls.
    Hood lining has dropped as they all do!!!
    Fuel economy wasn't as bad as i thought it would be with an average of 15l/100k's when we drove it back from Perth to Newman. The 96 ltr tank is handy!!!!!!!!!!
    Around the city i imagine it would be thirsty though.
    Cheap parts available from UK with about a 4 day delivery period, if you order on a Monday i normally get my bits by Friday.
    Good luck with it.
    Toyota are no more reliable and cost just as much for parts and you wont get a 99 Landcruiser with the kit that is in the Disco for $7-8000.
    Mine has Hill Descent, ABS, ACE, Air Bags, Climate Control etc etc.
    And the V8 does purr nicely..... i don't think i could live with the TD5!

  3. #3
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    No centre diff lock fitted to Series II Disco from 1999 to about 2002 (I think) so before lifts and 33's, I'd be seriously considering fitting the activating levers etc for the centre diff lock. All the 'guts' should be in the box, LR just thought they didn't need to fit the actuating lever as they thought the traction control would suffice. They changed their minds a few years later and reintroduced the CDL.
    Roger


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    Quote Originally Posted by Xtreme View Post
    No centre diff lock fitted to Series II Disco from 1999 to about 2002 (I think) so before lifts and 33's, I'd be seriously considering fitting the activating levers etc for the centre diff lock. All the 'guts' should be in the box, LR just thought they didn't need to fit the actuating lever as they thought the traction control would suffice. They changed their minds a few years later and reintroduced the CDL.
    Beware: not all D2's in this period had the "guts". Check for the spigot on top of the nose of transfer box first. You can retrofit a D1 nose and actuating yoke, but biggish job.
    Cheers,
    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by zzsteve View Post
    Beware: not all D2's in this period had the "guts". Check for the spigot on top of the nose of transfer box first. You can retrofit a D1 nose and actuating yoke, but biggish job.
    Cheers,
    Steve
    Absolutely correct and thanks for clarifying - although both of the models mentioned above should have the 'guts'.

    I think it was 1999 to about mid 2001 that the CDL 'guts' were still included (sans the actuating lever/s) in the box - not sure of applicable VIN numbers but as you say, the 'spigit' with 10mm nut on top of the TC nose is the indicator.
    Roger


  6. #6
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    People with more experience will need to correct me if wrong but the V8 is getting close to needing a freshening up at those km, I am sure that we will get people saying that they got 1/2 a million km on their V8 without putting a spanner on it but I think you will find most need a rebuild in the mid 200k km.

    An early D2 transfer case will still have the guts of the central diff lock, you will either have to put up with actuating the CDL by getting under the vehicle and putting a spanner on the stub and turning it by hand. Otherwise it will be $300 or higher to get a lever/actuator retrofitted for you to engage the CDL from the cab.

    The auto will also need to have a close look, just check how clunky it is changing gears and the back seal could be leaking into the transfer case. I have about 180k km on my D2a, it is a TD5, the gear changes are not as smooth as they were 50k km ago and I think there is a little play starting to appear in the spud/adapter shaft.

    For that sort of money you will not do much better, if you are handy with a spanner you will save a few bucks on repair items that come up.

  7. #7
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    Awesome, great advice thankyou, yeah I think theyre aware the v8's dont have a great resale value which is good for me as I plan to keep. I notice the roof lining too, hopefully an easy fix.

    Re the CDL, it all looks in place but am I missing something? Is it just the low and high range activation but no lock on 99 model?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    People with more experience will need to correct me if wrong but the V8 is getting close to needing a freshening up at those km, I am sure that we will get people saying that they got 1/2 a million km on their V8 without putting a spanner on it but I think you will find most need a rebuild in the mid 200k km.

    An early D2 transfer case will still have the guts of the central diff lock, you will either have to put up with actuating the CDL by getting under the vehicle and putting a spanner on the stub and turning it by hand. Otherwise it will be $300 or higher to get a lever/actuator retrofitted for you to engage the CDL from the cab.

    The auto will also need to have a close look, just check how clunky it is changing gears and the back seal could be leaking into the transfer case. I have about 180k km on my D2a, it is a TD5, the gear changes are not as smooth as they were 50k km ago and I think there is a little play starting to appear in the spud/adapter shaft.

    For that sort of money you will not do much better, if you are handy with a spanner you will save a few bucks on repair items that come up.

    I thought a freshen up would also be required, ie new plugs, leads etc, ive read up about the cylinder linings in the 4.0 v8's moving around on mid to high km examples, is this right?
    Last edited by xenomorph; 31st March 2012 at 05:12 PM. Reason: spelling

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by xenomorph View Post
    Re the CDL, it all looks in place but am I missing something? Is it just the low and high range activation but no lock on 99 model?
    All Discos have high and low range and the model you are considering would have all the mechanism inside the gearbox to activate the CDL. What you would be missing (unless a previous owner has had one fitted) is the levers and links to operate the CDL from inside the vehicle.
    Roger


  10. #10
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    Excellent, ok so with CDL, and a thorough service and check up, some tyres and a lift would anyone here consider taking this spec vehicle on longer more remote trips, say up to Birdsville for example? Im looking for a rig that can tackle the Flinders and Vic High Country (i know it will drink the fuel, jerry cans needed : ) but possible the Simpson too. Anyone taken theyre V8 this far or am I dreaming and should go TD5

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