Yep they are a classic example of Pommie engineering at it's worst.
Mind you my old 1600 cc Alfa Spider wasn't far behind it.
It is a job I do not want to do again. I had to do it twice as I bought a solenoid kit. that did not work; then I had to fit a new starter complete.
Strange thing is that the top nut is always tight.
The 3/8 6 point socket + extension is the important thing. If you round off the nut with a twelve point socket, it WILL be a bloody nightmare to get the thing off....if you ever do.
I would suggest you should read as many threads as possible on this subject before attempting it.
Firstly check that it is the starter motor giving the problem.
To check this place a wooden rod like a cut down broom stick on the starter motor and hit the end of the rod with a hammer. So it's tap tap with the hammer NOT smash smash.
You can do this from the top through the manifold or from under the car. I like from the top.
This moves the internal terminals a little and they then work for a while.
You will be shocked but 90% of the time the car will now start.
Do this again if it did not work. After three times I would suspect something else is possible the problem as well as the starter motor being completely dead.
In the engine fuse box is a relay marked SM for starter motor. you should feel it click under your finger when you try to start the car. You can exchange it with the head light washer relay which is left of the SM relay. See if that works.
No relay click then look for the starter motor fuse in the same fuse box. The table is on the back of the fuse box lid.
Is the battery giving around 12.5 volts standing? Check the battery terminals are tight and internally clean. Try a jump start.
Follow the earth wire from the battery down to the engine. You can tighten it from below the car.
Could be the key but I doubt it. Bit of a wiggle and that should solve that temporarily.
Ok so you hit he starter motor and the car started. Carry that wooden rod with you and a hammer. You can keep hitting the starter for a few weeks and that will get you going.
You have a week or two. Look for the parts you need on the internet. ebay from the UK was good for me. Got the parts in a week.
If your car is less than 260000km then you will need the solenoid kit including the plunger. You may also find that a non factory Rover specialist in your area will probably have what you need but not as cheap as ebay.
If your starter motor is over 260000kms then the motor armature brushes will need to be replaced as well if you want the job to last another 100000kms plus. This is a specialized job that requires very good soldering skills and you will need to clean the internal part on the starter motor as well. You will also need to take the starter motor off to get the part number on it so you can find the brushes on the net or even at your local auto electrician. There are youtube examples on how to change starter motor brushes if that's the way you want to go.
Really if your way over 260000Kms you should think hard about a new starter motor. You have weeks while hitting each time you want to start the thing so you can hunt around for a good price or even order one over the net. Its an old car so aftermarket should do for another 200000km. When I had to get one I got a good price on an original because I needed it that week and that is all they had.
Ok so you hit it and it started. You will find this works for a few weeks and is only necessary when the engine is cold. When hot you have a good chance of turning the key a few times and it will start.
So you have the parts and you have to take it out. Put two or three layers of cardboard under the car and slide in and out on that. You will find this very good insulation against the cold concrete. Also your arms and cloths are going to get filthy with oil and grease.
You have read about the 3/8" 15mm socket and 6" extension. If you have to buy this then the cheaper the better. The first time I bought this I thought what a waste but I have used them 5 times now.
Look you can use a 1/2" socket but you will need to grind its diameter down. I used one of those impact driver to 3/8" socket adapters to spin the 15mm socket in the drill while I grind away.
I have measured a 1/2" socket and I know it is possible to grind it down as well. The 1/2" 6" extension is not an issue.
You also need to chamfer the back edge of the socket. This makes putting the top nut back in easier. Some people say they have no problem with what they have. This is because different manufactures of the same starter motor have allowed different amounts of clearance on the motor casing near the top nut. On an original starter motor you find there is not much room and grinding your socket is a good idea. I even ground the case of the starter and you can see this in the attached picture but this is not necessary. Just grind the back of the socket as much as you dare.
Remember disconnect the earth on the car battery before you start. Follow the instructions that every one else talks about from under the car.
Chock the back wheel so it does not role and do not jack the car up at all.
The main trick is you can put your RIGHT arm to the BACK of the car chassis "cross beam" that's there when you look up and you will find your hand will slip over the starter and you can feel the nut.
Use your left hand to manipulate the extension with the socket onto the nut and then put the handle drive on and its hard but it will undo. Then take the handle drive off and rotate the extension by hand. I put tape around the end of the extension to make it easier to spin in my fingers.
The rest is easy. It takes me about 40 minutes to take it off and 40 to put it on. So you will be under the car for a while.
To put it on put the bottom bolts in FINGER TIGHT. You want the starter to sag a little about 3 degrees. This is different to what others say. Don't forget that bottom plate that goes on first.
Load the 15mm nut in the socket with paper so it is snug and cut the excess paper off with a trimmer. Put your Right hand up there again and feel for the threaded stud. Move the 3/8" extension and 15mm socket into position and guide it into touchdown to dock with the stud. Hand turn it on using your fingers then tighten using the handle drive.
If you find it wont line up then grind more off the back of your socket.
I will attach a picture of what I did to my cheap socket.
I will attach a picture of the internal brushes that were stuffed on my old 340000kms starter. I had changed the solenoid terminals twice on that starter at about 160000kms, then 280000kms. I changed the solenoid terminals a third time at 3400000kms and found no improvement because the armature brushes were the problem and they were too worn. You can repair this but its a lot of specialized soldering work and really the starter motor is worn out so buy a new one.
If you want to open the starter motor to inspect the brushes you might have trouble with the 2 small screws in the end cap that hold the brush plate, I did my SM last week and after breaking a impact driver tip in one screw and rounding the other I undid them with a finely ground centre punch sideways on the screw head, at 260,000k my brushes and com. were in good nick.
A word of warning you cannot buy new screws unless you purchase a brush plate kit, they are a common size screws just make sure they are not longer than the originals incase they touch something they shouldn't.
The solenoid kit i bought the contacts were slightly thinner than the old set, purchased at a good price from a large auto electrical house recommended here i am sure they will see the brushes out then it will time for a new motor.
if you think thats bad dont go anywhere near a short bonnet frieghtliner truck with half the engine burried under the cab with no access panels they are awsome try doing a hot set on the tappets on those pos with out getting 3rd degree burns.
or my all time favorite resealing a hydraulic valve body on a wa100-1 komatsu loader oh boy was that fun, the whole time i am going to my self be a mechanic they said it will be fun they said.
but yes if you have anything built after 1980 you need a 3/8 drove socket set or at least adapters with sockets and extension bars when i did mine i think i used just a std 15mm socket with 2 6in extension bars then a 3/8 to 1/2in adapter so i could put a bigger ratchet on it to undo it easyer.
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