I remember some Falcon OEM (from new) hoses that turned pink on the white writing at about 15/20000k's because of the coolant bleeding through the hose right through to the outside.
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I remember some Falcon OEM (from new) hoses that turned pink on the white writing at about 15/20000k's because of the coolant bleeding through the hose right through to the outside.
It turns out to be hose failure - i cleaned off the OAT residue when the engine was stone cold and after going for a run today you can clearly see the tiny beads of coolant seeping out of the cut end of the hose where the reinforcing is visible
The hose has only done 8000 kms - grrrr!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/04/541.jpg
This is what happened after I cut the top hose and replaced the bleed screw in mine. Only did it for a short while then stopped.
Check the hoses re-enforcement construction material.Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
If you have a pure synthetic material once it starts to weep it will keep on weeping. If you have a natural material like cotton it will weep for a while and then the cotton will swell and seal up.
The easiest way to check is to singe the end with a lighter, If the material turns to an ash then its natural, if it forms a gloopy mess and bubbles as it burns then its synthetic.
.... I woulda thought either way they're failing when they start to weep 8000kms after installation eh! Y/N?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
it depends on your tolerance of failure....
by the letter, yes, its failed....
how long will it stay workable.... Depends. On a v8 I might let it slide but I'd be reccomending a change at the next service.
on a TD5/TDi, Id be recommending a change as soon as practicable if it didnt have a Low coolant level sensor fitted and next service if it did.
On something more robust, (Or if you're more of a risk taker than me) Id let it slide until i noticed another indiaction of failure (bulging, rubber turning up in the header, crinkling when squeezed at a bend with the cap off the tank)
My experience
Have had a lot of weep since using the Nulon OAT red stuff. Do not know how this differs from the LR red stuff but seems to be worse for causing weeping and then all the crud builds up where it is weeping.
The biggest thing for me was to clean up the metal spigots and metal pipe ends with emery cloth although the plastic tank ends are good. I replaced the top engine one as it was too corroded. I can't see why the original sprung clips should deteriorate as you can not over stretch them. The benefit of a worm screw clamp would be for when you need more pressure to seal around an irregular corroded spigot surface and want to squeeze the hose surface down with more pressure.
To that end after cleaning up I use a smear of Permatex no 3 aviation goo if it continues to weep and that will fix it. After the first hose failed I purchased a complete set of hoses off Ebay and over the last couple of year replace them as required.
What often happens with LR parts is they make revisions to the part but the pattern parts dont.
Look at a 300tdi hose.
The factory hose has slightly changed to reduce stresses and rubbing but the pattern parts are still the original inferior shape.
LR often don't advise the changes.
Skuilnaam
Since starting this thread in mid April I've travelled 800Km all up and used over 1.5 litres of premix NULON OAT to maintain the max level in the coolant reservoir. The top radiator hose continues to weep at the ends, i have noticed no other leaks and no coolant puddles form under the car. Seems like a lot of coolant loss to me:eek: Am now considering that the Head Gasket is the culprit here and coolant is going out the exhaust pipe.:eek::eek:
The engine has done 280000km and it's the original HG - it can't go on 'cos NULON is more expensive than diesel :mad: - what do others think?
onebob
Run the car on nulon and cooling system on diesel?Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob