Urgent Hlp Pls - Manual Unlock Sequence D2 00

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Glad to see it only took 2 goes:D

There have been a LOT of posts on replacement bodys/blades/rubbers,
seems like there is good Valeo stuff on ebay now,, (if I remember correctly:p)

did you give him hell about the battery??;)

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Hi Pedro,...
"the rooster came in flustered so I didn't bother ruffling his feathers" :angel:

...i'll scour the search function for suggestions on what others have used :-D

Cheers,
Lp

Hi all,
i'm in need of some further clarification / help please...

I've just inspected the circuitry and that of the micro switch that hubby got from jcar (best one they recommended size wise, albeit it's higher than the original tho)... and I have a couple of questions:

1. On the circuit board (pls refer photo), you can see the micro switch intact (top right) and the broken one (bottom/middle) where the top piece appears to have separated from the base - is this normal? i.e. is the micro switch manufactured to do this?

2. Upon reeeeeally close inspection, it appears as though the solder on either side of the micro switch isn't coming into contact with the switches sides - therefore I dont know how it is fixed on... any suggestions on how to remove the broken micro switch please?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks :-D

Lp


btw - Pedro - Valeo.... is that an after market brand? re your comment ...do you mean the "range" or "brand" itself available on ebay?

Lp your microswitch in the pic at the bottom has fallen apart the 2 small silver bits each end of the broken one are the solder bits that have to be heated with a very fine soldering iron and then the switch can be removed while the solder is melted.
Did you take what we see in the picture to jaycar so they can match up the switches as there are hundreds of the them.
You really need the switches to be the same or almost the same.
you could tempoarily remove the switch and solder 2 fine wires that you can just short together to make it work until you can get the correct switch.
if I was in your neck of the woods I would do it for you and I may even have some of those switches , but I really need to see them in front of me to identify corretly.
I used to do these sorts of repairs for a living.
Brad:)

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Originally Posted by Bradtot

Lp your microswitch in the pic at the bottom has fallen apart the 2 small silver bits each end of the broken one are the solder bits that have to be heated with a very fine soldering iron and then the switch can be removed while the solder is melted.
Did you take what we see in the picture to jaycar so they can match up the switches as there are hundreds of the them.
You really need the switches to be the same or almost the same.
you could tempoarily remove the switch and solder 2 fine wires that you can just short together to make it work until you can get the correct switch.
if I was in your neck of the woods I would do it for you and I may even have some of those switches , but I really need to see them in front of me to identify corretly.
I used to do these sorts of repairs for a living.
Brad:)

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Thanks Brad, I got it off in the end by gently heating both those ends. Hubby did take the complete fob into jcar (I even dismantled it for him in fear of 'someone' breaking it while trying to open it!!).... the guy said the replacement micro switch was the best one size wise they had. Perhaps Perth is different to Melb stores?? - or maybe it's just where we live! - eitherway....

The height doesn't appear to be an issue nor its width as all is aligning up there. The current issue I am having is getting the prongs on the jcar one to solder TO the points on the circuit board. The flex is beading up and I can get it to fix to the jcar points just not to both. Which makes me wonder if I am using the correct flex - it's electrical solder (silver bearing rosin core solder)?? It's what we had in the tool box...?? any suggestions??

I'm sure there is a fine art to it,... is there something I am doing wrong?

Thanks,
Lp

Problem is now fixed... soldered and it works!...

Thanks everyone for your help, it has been greatly appreciated :-D

Cheers,
Lp

Good onya Lp:clap2::BigThumb:

Valeo is the brand of the original fob,,

There is something in The Good Oil
second page I think,,

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Originally Posted by landyprincess

Problem is now fixed... soldered and it works!...

Thanks everyone for your help, it has been greatly appreciated :-D

Cheers,
Lp

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Great work. Shall we ad you to the 'recommended repairers' list now?



**Attention everybody: for any D2 remote repairs, contact 'landyprincess'**
:):)

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Originally Posted by Scouse

Great work. Shall we ad you to the 'recommended repairers' list now?

**Attention everybody: for any D2 remote repairs, contact 'landyprincess'**
:):)

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Thanks Scouse/Pedro...
I think i'll leave it to the professionals that do this for a living, after all - it's really not my area of expertise and fingers crossed it holds for some time until I need to buy a new unit when it comes time to part with Lp ... landrovers for some reason are not 'popular' in Canada from what I can gather (Chev/Dodge/GMC seem to reign supreme!) :-o

Cheers,
Lp

When I bought my D2 1999, the ignition switch was very difficult to place the key in (dry).
I squirted a small amount of Inox spray into it and it works a treat.
I am told that locksmiths use this instead of graphite these days.Just thought this may help someone.

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Originally Posted by worane

When I bought my D2 1999, the ignition switch was very difficult to place the key in (dry).
I squirted a small amount of Inox spray into it and it works a treat.
I am told that locksmiths use this instead of graphite these days.Just thought this may help someone.

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Mine at times is impossible to get in, I wonder if this is what mine needs.