Thread: V8 head gaskets

Rover V8 engine parts including flanged linered and Coscast block castings

Scroll down and you will find the top end rebuild kit. I bought a kit a while back just in case, but also added a pair of the genuine head gaskets and the plenum gasket in the box. Whole lot delivered will be under 250$ from memory.

While you may very well have a head gasket issue (what makes you think it is a head gasket) - I would have thought it more likely the tin valley cover gasket - if the leak is at the front of the engine could be the little rubber hose behind the water pump that bypasses the thermostat.

Where is the leak?

Garry

Thanks for the prompt replies.

Garrycol..I have been advised that the gasket is leaking slightly by my local disco specialist and that it should last until the next service. I am not sure where it is leaking, but the water level is not dropping, the temp gauge stays constant, there is no sludge, and the engine runs sweet. I do trust the fellas at the specialist, so I believe it must be leaking somewhere. Any pointers or clues where to look?

Psimpson7..Thanks for that link. I know of turner engineering and they have a very good reputation. I have seen gasket sets on evil-bay but they are probably junk. I would prefer to use oe or similar quality. Turner Engineering would be a good place to buy from. Thanks.

A common problem with LRV8 head gaskets is leaking along the interface between the head and the block. It should be reasonably easy to see using a torch and getting down to look along the lower edges by the exhaust side of the heads. As suggested by the mechanic it's not a big problem yet but worth addressing soon. None of it is particularly difficult so long as you have all the tools at hand and nimble fingers for accessing the stuff behind the manifold, e.g. the coil packs and their 7mm (?) bolts.

Worthwhile is to consider installing ARP head studs instead of bolts, also new plug leads are best done with the inlet manifold top off.

Doing the plug leads is a good idea, thanks for that, but why the ARP head studs?