That sounds really odd as the rebound adjustment mainly affects the low speed circuit by closing off bleed ports. (as well as increasing the pre-load on the stack in the twin tube damper)
That will blow out the cost significantly because to do that they also have to strip and rebuild the shock. They cant TIG the body mount while the shock is under pressure.
Here is my opinion on it all.
I would be inclined to use the D2 shock. I suspect its an Australian part only because they have been developed by Heasman and they have the Bilstein motorsports unit in the same factory and its easy for them to build any shock from any part. We're lucky in that respect that they care enough to do it.
The shock that they produce will be a properly fitting and properly bushed shock that will just work - no dramas and be as cost effective as a Bilstein will ever be. Personally, I think that out of the box, Bilsteins are the highest quality shock and best designed shock on the market with the exception of their bushes - I change these to poly, they don't believe in poly.
If you want to get into buggy shocks, they come with rose joints top and bottom. These are really cool, and then after 6months they will start to click and annoy you so you'll replace them and then 6 months later you will have Heasmans replace the rose joints with bushes, which means they also need to totally tare down your shocks which will also cost you for a rebuild. If you fit buggy shocks they're also a bit trickier to fit as they need adaptors from 1/2" to 12mm (they come with them) and shims to fill out the shock mounts. The lower fronts are also a bit tricky.
If you want buggy shocks, I would look at the 6100 series. They are much more cost effective than the 7100 but every bit a buggy shock. You choose your valving and select from the available lengths or travel. If you get it wrong, then you can have them rebuilt with new valving (about $100-150 depending on your rapport) - you can consult and be advised by Motorsports if this is the case, so you don't have to learn all about shock dynamics before doing this or start pulling numbers out of the air.
The 7100 is another buggy shock, but with remote canister. By design, Bilsteins dont fade as there is a barrier between the oil and the gas. The remote canister on the 7100 isn't so much about controlling fade, but allowing Bilstein to take the gas away from the bottom of the shock and placing it outside of the shock, which gives the shock piston more room for travel in a given shock body length. (Rancho call this length efficiency). A 12" travel 7100 isn't much longer than a 10" 6100. Unless you specifically need the 7100 "short body", then I wouldnt spend up on them as there is no value.... well, they do look obscenely cool too I have to admit.
So what do I think.... just get the D2 long travel shocks. They're easy and wont potentially cost a bomb.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
over the years there would have been quite literally thousands of Billys raced offroad without remote canisters,
Dont kid yourself, if you are going to be doing hundreds of kays along corrugations then maybe--
but just normal offroad stuff??
Follow Slunnies advice![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
But when you can get the 6100's or 7100's for less than the local 994/995's wouldn't you rather look cool and save money?
Pure Bilstein Baddass
![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Save money ?
You're taking a stab in the dark with generic valving, not something valved to suit your car, and as Slunnie said , you really do need to replace the spherical bearings (unless you install some seals-it seals) as they will flog out in normal day to day use.
It's false economy.
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