Thread: D2 Td5 manual - over reving

Originally Posted by Disco EMU

Hi Guys

My 2000 Td5 manual is over-reving when changing gears ... like the accelerator is sticking ... briefly.

Eg ... when accelerating, foot off the accelerator, clutch in ... the revs continue to rise, pause and then drop. it even continues without using the clutch but it's not every gear change ... mostly when accelerating a little harder. Sorry it's hard to explain.

Anyone else experienced this issue?

Thanks

My manual TD5 did that as well, never really found out why, could be just to quick on the clutch or could be the MAF, it regulate air/fuel, give it a clean(spray it with MAF cleaner) made by CFC from memory.

Sorry not much help.

Baz.

Our Td5 did this, there is a thread here somewhere, just search threads started by me if you want. In essence the problem was the 'clutch' switch, this is an inline switch that is pressure sensitive and kills revs when the clutch is depressed and also cancels cruise control, it leaks and the hydraulic fluid make sit less sensitive, we replaced it after a few other tries with things like the oily ECU plug etc. turns out this was what it was, the clutch on a td5 is a bastard to bleed though. It is located on the drivrs side of the engine bay in the hydraulic line for the clutch. I'd be surpirsed if your problem wasn't the same, it surfaced after i started driving the car (it's mum's) as i push the clutch harder and faster.

Cheers
Will

Originally Posted by MR LR jnr.

Our Td5 did this, there is a thread here somewhere, just search threads started by me if you want. In essence the problem was the 'clutch' switch, this is an inline switch that is pressure sensitive and kills revs when the clutch is depressed and also cancels cruise control, it leaks and the hydraulic fluid make sit less sensitive, we replaced it after a few other tries with things like the oily ECU plug etc. turns out this was what it was, the clutch on a td5 is a bastard to bleed though. It is located on the drivrs side of the engine bay in the hydraulic line for the clutch. I'd be surpirsed if your problem wasn't the same, it surfaced after i started driving the car (it's mum's) as i push the clutch harder and faster.

Cheers
Will

This makes sense to me, I did start having problems with the cruise cancelling just before we traded it in, it would hit a bump and go off, in the end it didn't need all that big of a bump to cancel.

Baz.

Fixed mine not long ago. Was the clutch switch which tells the ECU the clutch pedal was depressed and to cut fuelling during gear changes.

Plugged the nanocom in and monitored while driving and found the switch to be "slow/sticky" sometimes and not responding fast enough thus causing the engine to over rev. Happened about 50% of the time so was hard to predict and adjust driving habits.

Simple fix and took a few minutes to fit a new one.

I can take a photo tomorrow showing location if required.

Originally Posted by CowsGoMoo

I can take a photo tomorrow showing location if required.

No need ... but thanks.

The mechanic will see her tomorrow for her 120K service ... I'll point him in that direction and hope for the best.

Thanks again guys!!

No worries. Be aware that the switch can appear to be working. I tested mine while stationary and the nanocom showed it working. Every time I pushed the clutch the switch was activated.

However while driving and monitoring it really became apparent the switch was sticky and lagging.

they also become temperature sensitive.

I found the easiest way to check is to bridge out the plug from the switch with some thick cable, once I did that it stopped the over reving straight away. So I changed the switch, and away I went.
No need to bleed the line it takes a couple of secs to change it.
bronson