Reply With QuoteI personally went and changed the slabs unit with the later d2a one that had the diff lock programmed into it on my 99 modelOriginally Posted by Campaspe Man
about $150 from the UK
Fossicker
SupporterWell, I fitted the CDL on my 99 D2, and didn't need to do anything for the diff lock light to come on... I did however follow the steps to access the wiring in the passenger foot well so as to cut one specific wire, removing the problems with traction control. I found the instructions somewhere on the internet... if you like, I can try to find them and post here?
Myles
Fossicker
SupporterI personally went and changed the slabs unit with the later d2a one that had the diff lock programmed into it on my 99 model
YarnMaster
Just be aware that this "trick" is not flawless hence they released the upgraded ECU ... IMO at the beginning it was a good reason for the TC to be disabled with locked diff in the earlyer modells cos there are cases when the locked diff and TC could come in "conflict" as the unit was not configured for both enabled and the result is overheating brakes and even losing traction when you need it more. Happened to me when i knew too little about this system and cut the wire as in that tutorial, got stuck in mud with almost no traction and once i disabled the CDL the TC saved me then i tried the same path only with CDL engaged and ABS relay removed and went through as well while stuck with both in action. I found the technical explanation too for that but it's a long and comlicated story, a part of it starting from here: Discovery TD5 52 plate centre diff lock | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Member
I've got a slabs from a later model, not the 04 one but the one before that, I believe serial number ends with 150 so I'm hoping this will work to help the TC issue, I've got everything else working now. Just need to find someone with a nanocom to help install that slabs unit and sort an issue with my airbags, although just happy to be able to drive truck again!
ChatterBox
SupporterThe 150 should also be ok.
Master
SupporterI have the 150 version (dated 03) which I got off an 04 plated car (mine is 99 year) and it does the chimes thing on engage and disengage, I also have a later transfer box with the 2 switches to detect lock and they were both dead. They are wired in parallel and only one functioning one is needed so I bought one and that sorted the diff lock light, the other one I cut the top off and screwed it back in as a plug.
Also while I had console out I took note of the wiring across the top of the gearbox as ppl say they rub through and sure enough mine had been unhooked at some point and was rubbing through so I chucked it and stripped back and re sealed a newer donor one and mounted it properly so it sits firm and that fixed the going into limp mode when getting too wet underneath.
I still find it strange looking at the transfer case lever now sitting leaning towards me instead of vertically.
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks