CDL Home Made lever idea...

**AK83** · 6th October 2025, 09:52 PM

Originally Posted by Adarewyr

Hey guys, so I may just be retarded (likely) but I am pretty sure I do have the CDL internals, as I've got the stud with three bolts and the center stud on a td5 2000's d2, but I can't get a 10mm socket or spanner onto that stud. I've got a zoomed in photo from another forum of the bolt on that stud and it looks a lot bigger than what I can feel on my truck, and suggestions? I will try to get a video for myself to see what I can feel when I have some time in the sunlight. Really want to try get the CDL to work as the truck seems very capable with just the ETC on open diffs, managed to outdrive my rear lockered d23 on our first trip out

If you have the 3 bolt cover and the stud, you have CDL internals.
approx 2002 models don't have the internals, or external hardware for locking diff ... don't need to ask me how I know this!!

There's a very good chance that you have the spanner in the wrong location, or the shaft is heavily mucked up with hardened gunk ... half of which is probably baked on gear oil!

IIRC, the two flats on the stud line up pretty well with the front and rear of the car, i.e. longitudinally. So if you start with your 10mm open end spanner(not socket!!) to get a feel for the flats on the shaft coming in from the front, and just keep trying. If you have an angled spanner, the most likely orientation of the spanner handle will be approx above the pass side front bolt of the 3 bolt cover, as it kind of gets in the way a bit.

if it is gunked up badly, maybe try getting a small screw driver on it to scrape it a bit, see if anything flakes off. You can get your hand up and onto it to get a feel for the orientation of the flats to be sure.

Don't use socket or ring spanner, has to be a open end spanner, as the shaft, which is circular has two flats, and that's where the spanner sits.

Just remember that you're not trying to turn the nut(if fitted). You're trying to turn a shaft that has a small protrusion where a 10mm spanner will fit onto the flat of the shaft.

**Adarewyr** · 22nd October 2025, 05:38 PM

Hey guys I've got the lever from a d1 installed now, was surprised how easily it all went together tbh. A couple of issues I've got now are I cannot seem to select N or L I'm stuck in 4H, although it was also stupidly difficult before I changed the levers etc over. Second issue I've got is the diff lock light won't show on the dashboard, although I have had it on there before when I've been playing around, is this where I need to get the newer slab computer to allow me to have CDL and the TC on? I'm a roofer not a mechanic so this is all new territory for me

**V8Ian** · 22nd October 2025, 05:44 PM

The lever can be very stiff, if the transfer has not been regularly changed.

**sierrafery** · 22nd October 2025, 06:53 PM

Originally Posted by Adarewyr

... is this where I need to get the newer slab computer to allow me to have CDL and the TC on? ...

Yes

**AK83** · 22nd October 2025, 07:17 PM

Originally Posted by Adarewyr

..... A couple of issues I've got now are I cannot seem to select N or L I'm stuck in 4H, although it was also stupidly difficult before I changed the levers etc over. ....

My D1(auto), when I first bought it, was same, super hard to get it to L or H once it did move either way. set trans into N or or manual into neutral to make it easier too, sometimes just a small amount of movement can get it to mesh in easier too. Once it got moving, just kept doing it a few times and it 'freed' something up and then it was easier from then on.

D2(also auto) was easy to move from H to L and vise versa from the get go.

I remember the owner I bought the D1 from never even knew about diff lock, nor High Low ... was surprised it was there when I tested it on the test drive.
D2 owner was a bit more of an off road type person, so I assume the lever got a bit more of a workout.

**Tins** · 22nd October 2025, 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by AK83

D2(also auto) was easy to move from H to L and vise versa from the get go.

Mine is locked out unless in P or N. But then, mine also has two levers...

**admiralranga** · 22nd October 2025, 09:04 PM

Originally Posted by Tins

Mine is locked out unless in P or N. But then, mine also has two levers...

Least from experience (limited) and the hand book the trick is to drop it into N and change range while the car is still moving under its own momentum.

**AK83** · 23rd October 2025, 05:32 AM

Originally Posted by admiralranga

Least from experience (limited) and the hand book the trick is to drop it into N and change range while the car is still moving under its own momentum.

Yeah, I think it even says on the centre console label, up to either 5 or 8k/h or something.

But weird how (for me), one was as hard as Adarewyr says(D1), was nigh on impossible to move, then slowly freed itself up over time. But the other(D2) snicks in and out easily(if in P or N)

**Tins** · 23rd October 2025, 06:09 AM

Originally Posted by admiralranga

Least from experience (limited) and the hand book the trick is to drop it into N and change range while the car is still moving under its own momentum.

Yep, can do that. Just like matching gears to revs.

**Tins** · 23rd October 2025, 06:12 AM

Originally Posted by AK83

Yeah, I think it even says on the centre console label, up to either 5 or 8k/h or something.

But weird how (for me), one was as hard as Adarewyr says(D1), was nigh on impossible to move, then slowly freed itself up over time. But the other(D2) snicks in and out easily(if in P or N)

Ian said it, and Mike ( Britrest ) shows it. If not used regularly it will seize up.

Which reminds me, I have to get under mine and adjust the CDL. It has become hard to disengage.

Thread: CDL Home Made lever idea...

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