Thread: Sump Gasket replacement

G'Day. Another bugger of a job, this one.

Blknight is a cable tie proponant.
I had all kinds of fun with mine when I put the box back on.
The gasket just wouldn't sit flat enough and puckered whichever way I tightened it.
Went back to MR with sump in hand and went through all of their stock to find one that came close!
Their trick is to use plain old Contact cement on the block then carefully carefully...
As mentioned, there are 2 locating knobs that fit up into the bottom of the Main seal, just to make it more interesting ; /
Because I'm a gumby who can't keep track of more than 4 parts at a time, I used a piece of corro card box and punched holes in it to hold the bolts.
After all that I still have a small drip coming from the Sump/ bell housing/ main seal convergence. When the scars have healed fully, I'll pull it off and MAYBE get it righ this time.
Yours in pain and frustration, Dave.

I read the article in WWW.discovery2.co.uk/TD5"Famous"Oil Pump Bolt which says-you must put a small bead of sealant in three places on the sump upper face- This may stop the troubles you had. I will let you know after I have tried it. Hopefuly in the near future

Originally Posted by Len

I read the article in WWW.discovery2.co.uk/TD5"Famous"Oil Pump Bolt which says-you must put a small bead of sealant in three places on the sump upper face- This may stop the troubles you had. I will let you know after I have tried it. Hopefuly in the near future

I was just going to mention there are 4 spots that need a little sealant aplied.
2 at the front along the timing case to block join.
2 at the rear along the rear main bracket join (some folk go the hole length).

On a standard hight Disco you will need to jack the chassis up to remove the sump.
Mine has a 45mm OME lift and doesn't need jacking.

The cable tie thing works well too, more so at the rear where the dowels on the gasket are.
Closing the eyes and counting to 10 does help when doing this job too

• the first thing is this...

Machines Talk to each other... Find a machine that you dont look after and generally abuse the crap out of by means of neglect, asking way to much of it, running it on anything but the fuel it should be run on or ever spending any money on it, if this means second hand filters and oil so be it. Park this vehicle next to the one you're about to work on. Just before you go in for the night tell the vehicle that you're about to work on that if it doesnt behave just so then it will be given the same regard as the one you dont look after. overnight super tight nuts will loosen, seales will come out easily and wont leak on re-installation. Its magic. you can also use the magic words "If you dont make this easy on me I'll invite dave around and he'll treat you just like fozzy."

• the next thing.

lay the replacement gasket out dead flat on a smooth clean surface (sounds like defender bonnet or wing if you dont have checker plate) and put it under a piece of cardboard put some small weights on it to keep it flat (full beer cans work well)

• The after that thing

Get the sump off and take it with you when you goto buy some zip ties get the ones that have about 1mm clearance inside the sump bolt holes and are about a foot long. while you're there get a gasket scraper and a NEW small tube of sealastic in the appropriate type you want to use (I usually use ATV blue or red)

• the thing after the after that thing

clean away the old gasket sealant from the 4 places, scrape carefully across the face of the block not along it.

• the not quite last thing

thread the zip ties through either the sump or the block holes (I go down through the block) then place the gasket in place on the sump and slide under the vehicle. Thread the zip ties through the appropriate holes in gasket and sump (and in the right order ) push the sump up and make sure everything is going to mate up. If it all mates up nicely thread an extra zip tie onto the ones in the 4 corners and use those to hang the sump while you put the sealant in place.

• the nearly last thing

use the 4 corner zip ties to lift the sump and gasket to within an inch or so of mating and with one hand position the loctaing lugs on the gasket while you push up that corner of the sump. once its in and the lugs are seated cinch up the zip ties on that side, do the same on the other.

• the last thing

close up a few more zipties to hold everything in place and remove one zip tie at a time before putting the bolt in place. once you have them all in tighten up all the bolts and its done.

• the I forgot it in the sequence when I planned it out thing.

put oil in it... no dont laugh, theres a guy at work with a dead engine because he forgot to put the oil in and thought that it was just the newly installed oil pump needing a few revs to pick up oil.

best of luck in my books this thing only rates a 2/5 on the not going to touch this with a 40 foot barge pole scale all things being equal.

• The completely forgot it and had to hit the edit button thing.

Once its sealed up, wait about an hour before starting it up to give the sealant a chance to work. Might as well drink the beer from earlier, no sense in letting it get warm.

The sump gasket was redesigned in mid 2003 and the torque figures revised. This is not reflected in the CD version of RAVE.

Bolts 11, 14, 15 and 18 ( the four bolts at the bell housing end of the sump) should be tightened to 28Nm rather than the 25Nm shown in RAVE.

cheers
Paul

Make the effort and try and remove the sump completely from the vehicle and have a look at how much old oil and sludge remains in the sump! This cannot be drained via normal oil change and will contaminate your fresh oil. You'll be glad you cleaned it out and degreased ther sump!

1. It's not a difficult job - just fiddly and made easier with help when replacing it back onto the vehicle when you have fresh sealant on the gasket

2. As pointed out - jack up the body and the sump will slide out to the rear/left quite freely (And back in)

3. I've done 4 sump gaskets/oil pump bolt checks and find that using cotton thread rather than cable ties to hold the gasket in place makes life so much easier. No tightening cable ties, no cutting cable ties off sequentially - just simply leave the thread in place as it will compress with the gasket and be oil-tight. The remaining thread hanging outside just disintegrates after time.

4. Do use sealant liberally in the areas pointed out in the manual or Rave - I extended the area beyond the recommendation and all engines have no leaks at all

5. Once I had the sump degreased and clean, I placed it on a bench and numbered the tightening sequence with a felt-pen on the actual sump......makes it a whole lot easier when you are laying on your back looking at it up-side-down and trying to figure out the reverse sequence of the removal

It is an ABSOLUTE PIG of a job for the first timer and imho just not worth it......

Pay the local Indy shop..I tried to do the same but they are all on holidays(fair enough in my book!)

I just finished mine and sure, I'll know better next time around so I'll' do it a lot more efficiently next time.

However, even though I've done it once I reckon I'd pay to get it done next time.

I may need a couple stitches between my eyes as the half inch socket and extension got stuck on a sump nut when I removed the ratchet....then it came loose and gravity done the rest.....I had just taken my eye protection off about 3 minutes before....lesson learned.

Oh well the scar may make me look tough lol

p.s I'm still not sure if its done properly...I'll find out in the morning if she's leaking or not!!!

NO, not my forehead, the sump gasket!


People who say that Discovery2's are easy to work on have never owned a Japanese vehicle lol (Jaguar/LR owner here btw plus Daihatsu/Subaru/Toyota/Lexus/Nissan)