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Thread: CDL Air/Electric

  1. 27th July 2012, 09:41 AM #11
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    clubagreenie
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    where did the cylinder come from, and I hope you made templates of the brackets!
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  2. 27th July 2012, 06:51 PM #12
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    onebob
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    No template I'm sorry - i bought from a bloke in Utah who makes them, mine has been installed almost a year now.

    He has a couple of clips on You Tube

    ► 0:26► 0:26

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuSnycTKBpM"]Air Shifter CDL - YouTube[/ame]

    onebob
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  3. 27th July 2012, 07:07 PM #13
    joe.woods
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    Yeah found this system before on my searches but the web site no longer exists...shame really.....looks like I will be machining my own
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  4. 27th July 2012, 07:09 PM #14
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    Slunnie
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    Nice setup, but I think a ram that doesn't require constant pressure may be the go.
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    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
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  5. 27th July 2012, 07:15 PM #15
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    clubagreenie
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    The Norgren unit I listed is just push/pull without springs. So pressurise to activate, then shut off compressor, pressurise to deactivate and shut down. Run a pressure switch on the supply line possibly or have a elec signal also switched on the air switch so push, turns on compressor, when light comes on turns off compressor. Pull turns on, light off turns off.
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  6. 27th July 2012, 10:11 PM #16
    MR LR
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    Whats wrong with the LR setup??? At least if everything ****s itself you can still lock the CDL manually (a lot easier than taking off the air/electric crap and doing it from underneath) and drive the thing out as if it were a D1. Plus the cost must be ridiculous.

    I know what i would go with (and have), but it's your baby do as you please
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  7. 28th July 2012, 07:48 AM #17
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    clubagreenie
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    Most cable options run at least $400-, I couild do this (bar compressor) for <$150-.

    Still seem reasonable? And you can stil get a spanner onto the nut on top of the spigot.
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  8. 28th July 2012, 11:25 AM #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR LR jnr. View Post
    Whats wrong with the LR setup??? At least if everything ****s itself you can still lock the CDL manually (a lot easier than taking off the air/electric crap and doing it from underneath) and drive the thing out as if it were a D1. Plus the cost must be ridiculous.

    I know what i would go with (and have), but it's your baby do as you please
    hmmmm! are you contemplating converting to cable operated brakes too?

    It cost me half the price of an original or aftermarket LR cable mechanism. Supplier said 30mins install - i fluffed around and it took a lazy hour.

    Like Tombie said it's nice and slick - air pushes piston, piston pushes lever and if it's good enough for the likes of Caterpillar, Kenworth, Sterling, and Mack for their truck transmissions, not forgetting mining equipment, drag bikes etc .... then it's good enough for me.
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  9. 28th July 2012, 03:33 PM #19
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    cal415
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    looks interesting, has anyone seen a similar setup for high/low? i guess you would need some kind of 3 position ram if something like that is available? i would go this way with my county i think, because of the relocated transfer case air rams would be way easier, but would prefer if it did require constant pressure to hold it as if you do loose air pressure your stuck with the unlocked position because of the spring unless you remove the ram.

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  10. 28th July 2012, 04:48 PM #20
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    clubagreenie
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    You could definately remove/use springless rams. A 3 position ram, now there's a funky setup.

    Image the usual setup, where pressure in the port at one end pushes the piston and air escapes the port at the other. No pressurise the outlet port and it'll push back and air escapes the previously pressurised port.

    Now for three position. You could do it electronically, but too easy. Pneumatically is way funky and I'll love designing it.

    Here goes. Drill another two ports, just each side of where you want the piston to stop.You need a special piston design too. So if piston moves right to left both the original vent hole and the new port to the right of where the piston should stop are venting. When the piston reaches the port it'll just pass it then when passed it'll vent and won't push the piston any further. That's neutral. You'd then need to block that port and pressurise again to go to the third position.

    Reverse above to return to first position, the centre port used for this (since we're moving left to right) will be to the left of the position of the piston.

    Now the air switching....

    Please do it electrically. Very easy, the Norgren cylinders have specially designed grooves for the switches to align and stop exactly where you want. These are used for some pretty exacting works so should suit the +/-0.5" required for Land Rover.

    I might go visit Monday and be a pest for a few hours.
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