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Thread: removal of front drive shaft

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    When I do mine I ditch the nylocker and use ordinary nuts with lock tight. This way they can be done up finger tight with fingers which makes fitting easier. I also find it easier to do the final tighten as the non nylocker nut is wider, giving much more purchase for the ring spanner.
    Genius...

  2. #12
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    Personally I'd use new nylocks that use high temp nylon as the locking ring or my actual preference is aircraft K nuts which use a flanged head and reduced hex.

    I really don't like lock washers/spring washers as I reckon they don't (lock that is) eg. you'll never see a spring washer on an aircraft or race car, only nylocks, metal locking nuts like K nuts or lock wired nuts.
    I've had too many spring washered nuts loosen over the years.

  3. #13
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    I don't use any washers and I have done a lot of Kms using my method, and as I said, I have no doubt that I get the nuts tighter having much more purchase on the nut. The other thing is, If the nuts did come loose there is enough warning, long before anything serious, and it is just a case of climbing under and tightening.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jafir View Post
    As has been said a 14mm will fit. The hardware is most certainly imperial. It's 3/8 unf x 1 1/8" for the bolt and a 3/8 unf nylock nut.
    Anything special about the LR genuine bolts/nuts as they're $80 a set. Do I need to specify anything else at my local bolt shop?

    Cheers
    Simon
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

  5. #15
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    Aug 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonmelb View Post
    Anything special about the LR genuine bolts/nuts as they're $80 a set. Do I need to specify anything else at my local bolt shop?

    Cheers
    Simon
    No, nothing special. You'll want them to be the same grade, which I think someone said was grade 5... but don't quote me on that. If you are replacing the nuts and the bolts, you should be fine.

    Also, I'm pretty sure allmakes or britpart re-package some hardware that is less expensive than the LR genuine stuff.

    Land Rover parts, spares, Land Rover accessories - Search results for NZ606041L
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  6. #16
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    I don't use any washers and I have done a lot of Kms using my method, and as I said, I have no doubt that I get the nuts tighter having much more purchase on the nut. The other thing is, If the nuts did come loose there is enough warning, long before anything serious, and it is just a case of climbing under and tightening.
    Sorry mate, just re-read your post and realise you are using Loctite, not a lock washer.

    All good, my poor reading

  7. #17
    Join Date
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    A set of bolts and nyloks from the bolt shop in grade 8 was cheaper than one bolt and nut genuine.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    A set of bolts and nyloks from the bolt shop in grade 8 was cheaper than one bolt and nut genuine.
    NAS spec aircraft bolts (12 point) would be cheaper than one genuine nut/bolt

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