Thread: noisy ACE pump?

I would rip the whole system off, replace the pump with the cast bracket and idler (along with slightly shorter belt) from a NON ACE vehicle, get the single lid fluid bottle and replace the ARB's with NON ACE items. Remove the pipes and sell the valve control block under the drivers side to recoup some conversion costs.

Its a very troublesome system that provides minima advantage if any IMO.

Colin

Originally Posted by locoboy

I would rip the whole system off, replace the pump with the cast bracket and idler (along with slightly shorter belt) from a NON ACE vehicle, get the single lid fluid bottle and replace the ARB's with NON ACE items. Remove the pipes and sell the valve control block under the drivers side to recoup some conversion costs.

Its a very troublesome system that provides minima advantage if any IMO.

Colin

Well, that is a big statement totally disagree, driving a Disco with ACE is magnificent. I totally disagree with the above and think the system is very trouble free.

Just go on line buy a new pump from the UK and throw it on. Simple. A great system makes the Disco 2 a wonderful car to drive.

ACE problems turn up infrequently on the D2 forum, and I think that reflects the relative lack of problems with ACE. It's been said many times on the forum that ACE is probably the MOST reliable sub-system on the D2.

While ACE seems to get a bad rap on the UK forums, I think this is largely due to corrosion issues that result from the practice of salting roads in winter.

That said it can be expensive to fix if things do go wrong. An OEM (LUK) pump will run to about $900 if bought locally, or $600-700 if purchased from the UK.

I personally love the ACE on mine and would fix rather than remove.

cheers
Paul

If the noise is below the driver's floor then most likely there's a small stone caught between the valve block and the chassis.

The pipes running across the front can vibrate if not restrained properly.