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clubagreenie, you say you got the 'stage 2' rebuild. Which T/C did you get and how modded is your motor? I see they only recommend the small T/C with a normal motor. Mine is pretty stock apart from freeflow exhaust, erg gone and '04 ECU flash upgrade, although Im not sure it does much, but it was there when I bought so cant compare.
Have made my mind to get an Ashcroft :D Just what spec is the Q now.
Cheers Scott
I've gone for the Large TC and I have a std 4.6 in the D2 so no ECU upgrade yet. A Mark Adams ECU is on the way though to better suit the engine.
If it's a TD5 there's something about the large TC that makes it unsuitable, can only use the medium (std 4.0)
Well I appraised a standard build auto from ashcrofts with a HD torque converter and the cost they got back to me was 1715 pounds with 500 freight . so about $3833.00. Then I have to fit it so its looking a bit of an expensive route at the moment.
Cheers Scott
The Stage 2 build isn't that much more, Mine was 4200- with a large TC, transfer rebuild kit, new transfer casing and other stuff.
Local rebuild was 4000- anyway, plus R&R which you're up for either way.
And I'll trust an Ashcroft rebuild over local off the shelf parts any day. Even the shop replacing mine was incredibly impressed with the quality of the build. and the shipping case is a work of art.
I get it back on Wed so I'll let you know how it is.
I think I would trust an Ashcroft build too :) I wast really expecting quite those $ for a stand rebuild, which I have accepted is all I really need, just doing the dirt road miles and unlikely to be hammered into death defying offroad stunts! :D The problem is that the A$ has taken a real dive against the pound this week! :o Am going to mull it over for a little bit :)
Thanks clubagreenie for your input, mucho gracious
Cheers Scott
Whatever you do get a flex plate from them, 28- pounds for a V8 one, LR locally want $800-. Was only told that it was cracked after they went to refit it and after the stuff had arrived, thanks guys the box was out weeks before I ordered. Plus the dowells got lost so needed to order them, $88- from rover, $5- from Land Rover & Range Rover Repairs Melbourne | Landrover Repairers Melbourne - Rover Land plus the flex plate from them was $52-, $800- from rover.
$52 as against $800? :o I have heard of markup but that is out of this world! Yes I was planning on 1 to replace it. I admire the shop for losing the bits, not noticing a cracked major component and still asking a substantial R&R fee, All with a straight face! LOL!
Cheers Scott
They offered to make the dowels, for $120- ea.
And a flex plate was a mere $600- from them.
Thought I would let you all know I have the D2 back home again running like a Swiss clock! Hmm maybe never heard a Swiss clock rattle... Anyway :p,Overhauled auto with Ashcroft converter installed and it great! Good when you can call in some favors! Took it down to brissy to get overhaul, It had just about died by the time I got there though. Turns out the pump had died and then did a lot of scouring on faces and such that I had to find another box, Did that, got it redone and in, only took like 2 months! :o But when its done on a favor for a lot less hard to complain! :D
So I think it quite true if your D2 hits 200k and the auto acts funny get it in and done, I left mine a bit to long maybe which cost me another box:angry: yeah yeah A stitch in time and all that jazz! The Ashcroft is a big improvement over the standard from what I can tell, much quicker on the take off with less revs, feels much more 'solid' with the drive hookup. Time will tell though.
Cheers Scott
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I've been getting this error recently, starting with once about 4 months ago, then 2 weeks ago, and now three times in three days. Unfortunately, the TD5 doesn't go into limp mode, the engine just shuts down completely, and I have to coast to somewhere safe to stop. I get both the M&S lights and the hazard lights. Clearing the fault stops the M&S lights, but not the hazards. To stop them, I have to pull the earth from the battery, and leave it off for 10+mins. After that, I can get the truck going again.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
Had a few suspects - a dying battery, but replaced that yesterday, with the fault still occurring once today. There is some oil in the red connector to the ECU. I replaced the injector harness last year, so I'm surprised I'm still getting oil, but it could be the cause I guess. Would a faulty XYZ switch cause this problem? Otherwise it sounds like I'm going to be tracking wiring between the ECU and EAT.
Any other thoughts?