Take one of the old studs to someone like Coventry Fasteners & tell them what you want - with a bit of luck they should be able to match it in SS
Cheers,
Alex
The exhaust manifold on the TD5 is warped. so after machining I was going to replace all of the standard studs with Stainless Steel studs.
Does anyone know of a supplier of QUALITY SS studs?
I know there are a number of ebay suppliers but am wary of buying off just anyone without having some confidence in them being a supplier of quality product.
Cheers
Ian
Take one of the old studs to someone like Coventry Fasteners & tell them what you want - with a bit of luck they should be able to match it in SS
Cheers,
Alex
Don't forget the anti-sieze or the corrosion can cause problems.
Its not the stud properties that are really the issue, its more the manifold design...
I think Tombie's point of corrosion / galvanic reaction is a valid point which Dave (Blknight.aus) also raised when I asked the question of which studs to use. I was looking at the following LAND ROVER TD5 UPRATED WURTH MANIFOLD STUDS X10 AND COPPER NUTS X10 | eBay which are high strength studs and copper nuts.
My thoughts are that if there is any warping of the manifold, the nuts will give way rather than the studs. Naturally a good coating of copper anti-seize and spring washers would be a good idea.
I would appreciate any thoughts on this.
Cheers
Ian
has anyone with 10mm SS studs had a problem with manifold warping?
![]()
I have refitted the factory studs, Sliced webbing, Jetcoated and run warm
Since done some serious towing, lots of warm runs and not a lick of a problem.
The issue is Cast vs Alloy expansion.... And bracing the webbing really messes the flex of the manifold up![]()
Tombie, I am interested in your comment about 'slicing' the webbing. Is that just using a cutting disc to run a cut into the webbing to separate the different manifold ports?
Cheers
Ian
I havent used stainless studs, (yet) but have dewebbed the manifold and planed it 20,000 klm ago, new standard studs and genuine gasket. leaking at no 5 found 5000 klm ago. pulled off manifold & found warped again, linished and another new gasket and a smear of maniseal around no5 and now I can see the telltale carbon leaking out again.
I wish you could get a proper exhaust manifold gasket like the old holden reds used to have with a layers of perforated metal laminated with some asbestos, i bet that would fix the problem.
Having said that I wonder how close rover individual v8 exhaust gasket would go to fitting ?
or even buying the material and punching them out myself
i might just have to get one of those apt fabricated manifolds.
.
Slicing the webbing is just a case of taking your favorite 4 inch angle grinder and running a slot into the webs perpendicular to the face of the manifold to the depth of the main body at the back of the web.
This is about the quickest and easiest method that works.
Some people like to scallop the web which is essentially grinding away about 1/2 of the web in a ovalish curve between the manifold runners they usually do this with a die grinder
others like to completely remove the web.
AFAIK they all work IMHO complete removal is better than slicing which is better than scalloping.
for goingbush I don recommend trying to cut your own gasket, I slice up the OEM gasket on the guillotine at work.
Dave
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