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Thread: Bleeding TD5 clutch master cylinder

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    667

    Bleeding TD5 clutch master cylinder

    I've just replaced my clutch master cylinder after the last one 'lost all pressure'. This is on a 2003 TD5 D2a.

    After several HOURS of bleeding I managed to go from flat to the floor with no 'clutch action' to 25% from the floor and the clutch starts to work, but in no way to drive normally.

    I've tried pressure bleeding from the master cylinder, pressure bleeding from the slave cylinder, the normal two person pedal and bleed method.

    So how do you bleed the clutch so it actually works correctly?


    Please

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Helensburgh, in the Illawarra, like the Shire but with class
    Posts
    12,351
    Quote Originally Posted by kelvo View Post
    I've just replaced my clutch master cylinder after the last one 'lost all pressure'. This is on a 2003 TD5 D2a.

    After several HOURS of bleeding I managed to go from flat to the floor with no 'clutch action' to 25% from the floor and the clutch starts to work, but in no way to drive normally.

    I've tried pressure bleeding from the master cylinder, pressure bleeding from the slave cylinder, the normal two person pedal and bleed method.

    So how do you bleed the clutch so it actually works correctly?


    Please
    I'm thinking your slave cylinder maybe knackered as well, a standard bleed of cracking the the bleed screw and pumping the pedal should do it, if not then look at the slave cylinder, some say you should do both at the same time.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    Lightweight Camper
    VW Golf Mk V TDi
    1973 Kawasaki H2-A 750
    BMW F650GS

    A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    667
    I've sorted it.

    Only took about 45 minutes as well.

    No problem with the slave cylinder (Thankfully given the cost, 400% mark-up on UK cost ).

    I'd tried pressure both at the master pushing to the slave, and from the slave pushing to the master neither worked, the standard for a 'normal' car didn't work.

    So this morning I tried sucking using a little syringe from Supercheap.

    I disconnected the main pipe from the master to the slave cylinder at the slave cylinder end, attached the syring with a bit of tube and sucked.

    I go loads of big air bubbles, and after several 'sucks' no more air. I made sure the reservoir was always full.

    I then removed the slave cylinder bleed screw completely.

    I sealed the reservoir with some plastic and a rubber band to help slow the fluid when I removed the syringe. I also had a metal tray under the Disco to catch any fluid.

    Then removed the syringe, gravity now pulling the fluid through, and refitted the pipe to the slave cylinder. Allowed the fluid to continue out the now empty bleed screw, and then refitted bleed screw.

    The normal bleed process was then carried out, only took a couple goes as all I was now bleeding was just the slave cylinder.

    Job done, fully operational clutch

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Helensburgh, in the Illawarra, like the Shire but with class
    Posts
    12,351
    Geez didn't have to do that to mine, thankfully.

    Good to see all is good.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    Lightweight Camper
    VW Golf Mk V TDi
    1973 Kawasaki H2-A 750
    BMW F650GS

    A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.

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