Thread: Td5 fuel pressure regulator megaleak.

No I havent tried one yet, But they are an exact fit. They are 4.0 Bar
the LR one is 4.3 bar , I really dont think that will be an issue unless you have a stage2 fuel map.
Lets face it a Supercharged bomodore is going to use twice as much fuel as a Td5 so should be well up to the job

The fact that they are for a petrol engine instead of a diesel may be an issue, if it is, surely thats the reason why the gen-u-ine ones are failing. LR are probably using FPR's designed for petrol engines cars anyway.

I'm game to try one but will have to wait another 150,000 klm for the new one to fail.

Originally Posted by d@rk51d3

We just chucked the old unit back in, used the original gasket and the disco is purring again.

test

Test what? The car?

No problems, took it for a few laps around work, then a hilly 30km drive home. All sweet.(apart from the slow drip we removed it for in the first place).

Contacted the seller, and he thinks it's a faulty unit.
Asked me to send it back for a replacement.

I think we will go for a Bosch unit first, and keep his replacement for emergency/give away prize

Hi Guys , i found this tread quite helpful and i also have a leaking regulator.

I am wondering whether i need to buy the whole housing plus regulator or can i just change out the regulator without removing the housing? I am not 100%sure what part of the regulator is leaking , is there a comon spot that fails?
Thanks for any info, Bill.

It'll pay to slide under the vehicle and have a look to see if you can find the drip.

If it's a hose, you can probably replace o-rings with it in situ.
The regulator sits facing the firewall, and will need to have the housing completely removed to get access to it.

Here's a fairly good rundown of the job:
TD5 Disco fuel pressure regulator - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

We didn't need to remove the manifold, fuel cooler, or heater hose and the job went remarkably quickly, even including the time it took to make a set of circlip pliers from an old pair of scissors, and cut a slot in a ring spanner to make a tool for the tube nuts

Well, it all went well the first time.

On the second go, our ego was shot down in flames as we struggled to get bolts back in without losing the gasket, or dropping the whole thing completely, or playing hide and seek with bolts that tumbled out at the last minute into who knows where as the cramps began to set in.

Either way, it's a job you really only want to do once, and as a minimum, I'd grab the Bosch 0280160575, and replace the capsule, stick a bit of tube on the overflow tail, and run it away from the starter motor..

A mob in the UK sell a "re-engineered" housing, but that comes in at about $400, and I'm not sure exactly how they've modified the unit.

TRS sell a complete kit with housing too, about $350 from memory, (and probably only a second hand unit too - from past experiences , though I could be wrong)

Thank you kindly , very helpful info . Cheers.