Thread: Exhaust Manifold Removal TD5

Pulling the turbo IMHO is the smart thing to do, it means you dont risk damage to any of the lines to the turbo and can properly inspect the turbo while you have the manifold off.

you get better access to a heap of parts that are gasketed on so a close inspection of them is on the cards as same same for the secret heater hose.

theres a bunch of nuts and bolts down that side that are easier to check out while its all off and replacing the sealing gaskets on the oil dump out pipe while your at it is a good call as is adding a nipple for a provent return line while you're at it.

you'll have good access to the engine mount on that side so thats worth doing if it needs it

as is checking out the flex joint in the exhaust and sorting out the heat shield mount while the manifold is off

the heater return pipe that runs over the top usually wants a bit of anti corrosion-y loving and the top hose boss likes some love too.

it'd probably pay to have a look at the water pump seals and inspect the condition of the threads in the centrifugal filter housing, changing the oil filter will be a cinch too.

That should keep you amused for a few minutes.

Geez Dave, you've just turned a 10 minute job into a 2 hour job!

Seriously, all good suggestions - AND YES I WILL DO EM!

Cheers
Ian

Thanks BlkKnight mine is due for similar work soon. I heard that there is a Welsch Plug around is this threaded? Ollie

Originally Posted by IanP

I am about to remove the exhaust manifold due to a broken stud. I will have it skimmed and replace all studs. The plan is to use standard studs with spring washers and flanged copper nuts. My questions are:

1. Is it necessary to remove the turbo completely to get the manifold off.
   
2. Is there a 'kit' of all gaskets, washers etc for this job?
   
3. What other parts should be replaced as 'preventative maintenance' while doing this job? I would rather replace parts early than wait until I have a problem down the track! - it has done 135,000 Km.

Cheers
Ian

Do the job as per RAVE - that's what I did - might be more time but less fiddly. And, yes, that means removing the Turbo and power steering pump.

Cheers,

Franz

I forgot its also worth the effort to pull the oil cooler cover and R/R the oil cooler with new seals, a very close inspection of the cooler is warranted especially if you've not been running OAT or HOAT or the green stuff only, (ie youve ever changed from one to the other)

Originally Posted by Ollie

Thanks BlkKnight mine is due for similar work soon. I heard that there is a Welsch Plug around is this threaded? Ollie

I'd have to consult rave OR just wait till the end of november I have a sneeky feeling that a D2 is going to be getting some serious loving thrown at it and all will be revealed.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I'd have to consult rave OR just wait till the end of november I have a sneeky feeling that a D2 is going to be getting some serious loving thrown at it and all will be revealed.

Not much in RAVE on the core plugs. This is from the cylinder head overhaul section:

Check core plugs for signs of leakage and
corrosion, seal replacement plugs with Loctite 243.

There is one between two exhaust ports in the back half of the engine that seems to weep. Fluids had a recent thread showing effects of the welch plug in question, and I think may have included a repair? ( http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...old-studs.html )

LCM100170 is the pn# for the offending welch plug: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=96059

Originally Posted by IanP

Geez Dave, you've just turned a 10 minute job into a 2 hour job!

Seriously, all good suggestions - AND YES I WILL DO EM!

Cheers
Ian

10 minute?? Budget a couple of hours at least to do the manifold change alone.