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Thread: Up-graded head light wiring

  1. #1
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    Up-graded head light wiring

    I did it, I did it.

    First let me explain that anything to do with wires has me running for the hills. Nuts and bolts is OK for me but electrical stuff

    Well I started out with the engine saver kit and that was fitted with a few scrapped knuckles but went OK. So I got brave and purchased the up-graded headlight and driving light wiring loom from Traxide.

    I have only fitted the first part, the headlight wiring up-grade as I'm not sure what driving lights I want to get, but it was easy. Yes easy.

    The hardest part is holding onto the wire and the eyelet as you try to crimp the two together. To make that part easier I went to Jaycar electronics and bought the most expensive wire strippers ($10) and crimper ($40) they had. I'm glad I did because it made the job so much easier.

    3 hours after starting to read the instructions the lights are working and all the tools are packed away. So if you are thinking about it give it a go.

    Now I think I'd like some brighter bulbs, not because I need them just because I have the power to make them shine.
    As I have the plastic headlight reflectors what sort of bulb should I get? Nothing over the top that will get drivers flashing me all the time, just something a bit better than standard.

  2. #2
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    If they are adjusted right they shouldn't effect others. I have 100/130's and it's not an issue (plus 2 x 150w driving lights) and don't get flashed ( unfortunately that extends to females as well).

  3. #3
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    Are your driving lights connected to a separate switch or do they come on when you use high beam?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    and don't get flashed ( unfortunately that extends to females as well).


    Quote Originally Posted by Gullible View Post
    Are your driving lights connected to a separate switch or do they come on when you use high beam?
    NSW road rules require a kill switch for driving lights, not sure about other states.
    So unless cluba is being a rebel, I'd say he has a separate switch

  5. #5
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    Well, there's a switch. There's wiring. And there's a zen like moment when I press the switch and turn on high beam and the D/lights work despite the 6foot gap between the two.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco Muppet View Post
    NSW road rules require a kill switch for driving lights, not sure about other states.
    Ah ha, I think I understand.

    I wire up the driving lights to work with the factory high beam, but I put a kill switch in the loop so that I can choose whether the driving lights come on with the high beam or not.

    This may take some more thinking about....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gullible View Post
    Ah ha, I think I understand.

    I wire up the driving lights to work with the factory high beam, but I put a kill switch in the loop so that I can choose whether the driving lights come on with the high beam or not.

    This may take some more thinking about....
    Got it in one

  8. #8
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    Well I've ordered new bulbs, nothing flash just some Philips h4 xtreem vision 100%.

    I'm wondering what kind of LED lights I should go for. 2x small clusters or one long light bar?

    I did come across this while researching for bulbs and found it very interesting, it is about blue bulbs and the kind of light they give off:

    Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

    Well worth a read.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gullible View Post
    To make that part easier I went to Jaycar electronics and bought the most expensive wire strippers ($10) and crimper ($40) they had. I'm glad I did because it made the job so much easier.
    A good stripper and crimp tool are a great investment. I use mine quite a bit, and was getting sick of having to replace the cheap junk that jaycar stocks. They do have some reasonable tools but you pay a bit extra for them. As usual it's a case of buy cheap, buy twice.

    I ended up with one of these:

    Ergonomic Supercrimp Tool - Jaycar Electronics

    The ability to swap dies is very useful. I've got dies for RF45 network cable connectors, the insulated Auto crimps, and recently picked up one for doing the AMP/Molex uninsulated connectors that are used on much of the D2 harness.

    I've had a few of the cheaper jaycar wire strippers which have only lasted a couple of jobs before they were throw aways. The last wire-stripper I picked up are great, and look like they will be around for a while yet:

    Heavy Duty Wire Stripper / Cutter / Crimper with Wire Guide - Jaycar Electronics

    I haven't used the crimper part of these, which looks pretty ordinary, but the stripper and cut work really well. The only drawback is you can't set the strip length to less than 1/4" which is too long for the AMP connectors amongst other things.

    To trim the wires down I've been using a pair of small side cutters, which give a nice clean cut on the bare wires.

    Stainless Steel Side Cutters - Jaycar Electronics

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