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Thread: Help! Another expansion tank cracked......

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty05 View Post
    ....

    I also noticed after looking at the rave about the flow of coolant, and to my surprise realised that the over pressure or relief actually goes back to the radiator via that smalll plastic hose, which everyone has had replaced by now.
    My question is then, that it cannot adequately release the pressure, as it is going back into the radiator, which is already at full pressure???
    That maybe why I think this issue is occurring, that they cannot properly vent when needed.

    ....


    Could there be multiple versions of RAVE with some misprinting?

    On my copy of RAVE, the direction of flow on that small plastic pipe between rad and expansion reservoir is definitely FROM rad TO the reservoir.(not the direction you describe).

    On the reservoir there are two small plastic hoses coming off the neck of the reservoir at the cap threads. The front one is for the pipe from the rad, and the rear one is a short section that vents down into the bottom of the engine bay where excess pressure is then forced out.

    For those specific parts V8 and TD5(both EU3 and pre EU3) work the same way.
    There are no descriptions of the parts on the TD5 section, but there are in the V8 section.

    The pipe from rad to reservoir is marked as No. 13 and described as 'radiator bleed pipe', and the second small plastic pipe(the rear one) is marked No. 20 'overflow/breather pipe'

    So the pipe from rad to reservoir is to keep the rad from developing air pockets, venting back into the reservoir.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty05 View Post
    ....
    I got an aluminium one made up since allisport only make them for the D1
    Also got it made with a standard cap fitting, so I get more options with cap pressure choice.

    ....
    And Allisport have had the V8 and TD5 D2 reservoirs for at least a few months now.
    Late last year when I first noticed them.

    Allisport D2 V8 header tank

    .... I don't know what the differences are, but they list the V8 tank at 148 Pounds, and the TD5 tank at 140 Pounds.
    I have a V8 myself, and can't really see any differences between mine and my brothers TD5 D2 tanks.

    Allisport appear to be using a standard cap as well .... nice looking ally job to tho!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #33
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    I used to run a couple of old Acco V8 trucks to do some contract hay carting and these had a Brass expansion tank, I never had any dramas with these.
    With the proliferation of the use of Plastic on newer vehicles including in the engine bay the use of Brass fittings has virtually disappeared unfortunately.
    If the expansion tank in a D2 was made of brass I doubt very much that there would be so many failures with them and for the price of a new genuine replacement tank LR should be able to produce these in Brass instead of plastic.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    .....
    If the expansion tank in a D2 was made of brass I doubt very much that there would be so many failures with them and for the price of a new genuine replacement tank LR should be able to produce these in Brass instead of plastic.
    Yeah, I reckon the same.
    RRC from thee old days had a copper/brass type expansion tank, never had a problem with it, even tho I ran the RRC hot for a couple of years.
    Same with my old P6's that had the copper catch tanks fitted.

    But even if you had engine overheating issues, and increased pressures building up, the release valve in the cap will limit internal pressures in the plastic reservoir anyhow .. so cooling system issues shouldn't necessarily cause plastic to crack.
    I'm thinking due to the need for manufacturers to increase profits, the more likely reason for plastic tanks cracking would be lax manufacturing processes more so than anything else.

    My D2 V8 is overheating(hence why it's still not on the road), and has been overheating for a long time(why it came into my possession), and the tank, which looks original is fine. No cracks no leaks.
    Cap works as designed, and it expels all the coolant(currently only water) via the rear of the two small pipes at the neck of the filler, out and down into the engine bay.

    If mine ever failed, I'd definitely be looking at an Allisport Aluminium tank, more so because they look good, but also because they'd last a lot longer by comparison.

    I have a vague recollection that some Fords(like the EA era models .. Fairlanes and LTDs of the time too) also had plastic tanks that caused problems.
    I remember my mechanic (a Ford nut) had a contract with a local Taxi Co to service them, and he was explaining something like that ..
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post


    Could there be multiple versions of RAVE with some misprinting?

    On my copy of RAVE, the direction of flow on that small plastic pipe between rad and expansion reservoir is definitely FROM rad TO the reservoir.(not the direction you describe).

    On the reservoir there are two small plastic hoses coming off the neck of the reservoir at the cap threads. The front one is for the pipe from the rad, and the rear one is a short section that vents down into the bottom of the engine bay where excess pressure is then forced out.

    For those specific parts V8 and TD5(both EU3 and pre EU3) work the same way.
    There are no descriptions of the parts on the TD5 section, but there are in the V8 section.

    The pipe from rad to reservoir is marked as No. 13 and described as 'radiator bleed pipe', and the second small plastic pipe(the rear one) is marked No. 20 'overflow/breather pipe'

    So the pipe from rad to reservoir is to keep the rad from developing air pockets, venting back into the reservoir.
    Hi Arthur,
    No there are not different versions, you read it better than I did.
    I was fixated on the "bleed" and mis took it as you have pointed out.
    The allisports were not available when I got mine made, I also got a sight glass put in it.

    Thanks again.

  6. #36
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    My Allisport one cracked too , I replaced it with a 2nd hand genuine white one , no problem since .

  7. #37
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    Onto the Heads (177k on the clock)

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew D View Post
    I have recently busted two expansion tanks. Last one lasted 5 months before I noticed a leak. (Purchased in late August 17, cracked Jan 18)

    Cracked in exactly the same place as the previous one. Down near the bottom hose.

    Also non-genuine and I'm pretty sure Britpart. I have advised the supplier.

    Looking at everyone else experiences I'm inclined to think the expansion tanks are poor quality.

    It's a Disco V8 2003.

    Regards
    Andrew
    Cracked another one. Genuine bottle and different location to the last 2 non-genuine ones.

    Replacing the head gaskets next. Small (very minor) amount of water bubbling in the expansion - hard to see though.

    If you know of any good tech tips for head gasket works let me know.

    I have purchased all the parts just need a weekend. Plan to get the heads serviced when off. (Victor Reinz Gaskets and genuine head bolts, not opting for the threaded stud option)

    Also looking to check if the liners are still ok when the heads are off.

    No other issues with the car other than the expansion bottle cracking and I doubt if anyone would even know there was an issue with the car unless I told them.

    Cheers
    Andrew

  8. #38
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    By the time you purchase the weld on billeted alloy radiator throat, cap, nipples etc and alloy sheet and design the tank to fit properly AND know how TIG weld very....the Allisport ones seem very good value for, what, about $100 or so more than the genuine plastic? Admittedly you would have to open the cap to see the level but if you have an engine saver you are on a pretty safe bet not to worry.

    Cheers

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    .... Admittedly you would have to open the cap to see the level but if you have an engine saver you are on a pretty safe bet not to worry.

    Cheers
    hey have versions with sight glass thingies now!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  10. #40
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    480 odd Aus delivered. It's a sizable outlay. Having said that a genuine one isnt cheap. Alloy can be fixed if it ever had an issue. Plastic not so much. Plus I would reasonably expect the Alli to be set and forget. Cheers

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