Reply With QuoteMine did exactly the same thing, it was the contracts in the starter motor. Have a look on Ebay for contact kits, it is not that hard to do yourself a long as you can get under the car to remove the starter. I have a pit so that helped.
Cheers,
Nova
Over the last several weeks my TD5 has developed a starting issue.
When I turn the key to start (ie the part where the starter motor would normally fire up) I sometimes just get, for want of a better word, a click. Nothing else.
Now if I turn the key back then forward again, sometimes it will start, sometimes I have to do this 2, 3, or even over 5 times. Sometimes it starts first go.
The battery is strong, connectors are clean and securely fitted. When the starter motor does fire, it starts quickly and every time. I have done some looking around on the interweb and seen suggestions it could be the solenoid (I assume this is what pushs the starter pin into position?), but am sort of at a loss as to where to start currently.
I couldn't find anything the same on the search here (doesn't mean there isn't, but just that I didn't find it). Any guesses as to where I start or what I should be looking for and if I can repair it myself?
So far I have replaced a front ABS sensor with an aftermarket one (amigos), injector harness and the rear qtr panel solo so will give most things a try. I also have a Nanocom if that will help diagnose, but I am still a rookie when using it. Been very happy with the Disco and it's reliability so far, even with these issues it has never let me down, and twirling the spanners every now and then has been satisfying.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Pads
Master
SubscriberMine did exactly the same thing, it was the contracts in the starter motor. Have a look on Ebay for contact kits, it is not that hard to do yourself a long as you can get under the car to remove the starter. I have a pit so that helped.
Cheers,
Nova
Thanks for the reply Nova. Is this what you are talking about?
Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 " Starter Motor Solenoid kit | eBay
No pit for me, but I have floor jacks and stands. I have heard the starter motor is a bit of a bitch to remove. Any tips?
Last edited by OffTrack; 3rd December 2012 at 05:06 PM. Reason: remove swear filter dodge
A Keeper of the TGO
Have a look in "The Good Oil" section on here.
I'm sure there is a thread link with a "how to" for this repair.
It may just be a age thing but also check your fuel regulator isn't driping fuel onto the starter.
hi pads my 99 td5 did the same,it got worse over time then wouldnt start at all starter motor was stuffed i looked to rebuild it but was advised just to replace the starter which i did, brand new one, as advised the discovery is 13 years old better off replacing the whole unit glad i did should be good for years to come!!
Wizard
Good luck. One of the threads say the nut on top of the starter is a biaatch. Boy, was he an optimist!! You can get to the nut if you remove the intake manifold sensor and get about 500 mm of extn bars and a swivel joint. Swivel joint after a 100mm extn. Put some wire onto the first bar to help guide it onto the nut.Alternately, pay someone who does it regularly. Mine had the 10mm nut that holds the auto pipes with a crook thread(angle grinder reqd to cut the nut veeery carefully) and a cracked housing around the top nut.After spending over one hr trying to undo it and then finding that I didn't need to , to get starter out, I had to lean on nut with all my weight to undo the damn nut, so I could repair the housing. That top nut is a killer. You need to get the extn bar the right length to get onto it from right on top, too long and it hits the engine support.Originally Posted by Pads
Btw, have alook at ebay.co.uk for replacement bits.
Wizard
SubscriberPads, I third (or 4th) the solinoid contacts.
Rest, you do not have to remove the inlet manifold!
You don't even have to remove the starter motor!!
You can unbolt the contacts and cables from underneath in the driveway. It's the only way I work :-)
Contacts alone are about $15, so the roverlord kit looks ok in price. He is a member here, so migt give you members discount, ask.
Mine aredue again. They stopped me recently, so I packed the contact out and filed the carbon off to get going again.
As mentioned, see the good oil or pm me for a walk through.
Cheers, Dave.
Thanks guys (girls?).
I actually managed to find the post in the good oil by accident through google search believe it or not here:-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...r-rebuild.html
Obviously I was not searching for the right things at first, mainly because I wasn't positive what was wrong. I think I will try and do the contacts/plunger kit first as it is cheap enough and seems quite plausible that it is the problem, plus will only require a couple hours work at most, especially as from your suggestions I can do it without removing the starter.
I really want to avoid removing the starter if possible as I have already had the pain of snapping off a bolt in the exhaust manifold when putting in a EGR blanking kit and would hate to have happen in an even worse position.
If that fails I will replace the starter as mrjc suggested, but as it is very strong when it does activate I am thinking it is probably in a good state at least at the moment. Fingers crossed.
Thanks,
Pads
Master
SubscriberMine was not bad to do at all, using a pit must make a fair difference. The top bolt did require a long socket extension though.
The car was of the road for longer waiting for parts than the time taken to pull it apart and put it back on. Parcel arrived without contacta so I had to wait for new ones to turn up.
Cheers,
Nova
Put the roverlord kit through on the weekend. Works like a brand new one now.
I don't know how anyone did it with the starter motor still on the car (a surgeon maybe?), with my big hands and not being able to see what I was doing it just felt like a nightmare waiting to happen, so after a few minutes fiddling I went to plan B and decided to remove the starter motor.
Wasn't that hard in the end. Hardest part was getting the socket on the nut (15mm). Used a 150mm extenstion which was just about perfect and the breaker bar from by 3/8 set. Still didn't have enough leverage so used a big ring spanner on the end of the breaker bar and voila she cracked and I had it off in about 20 minutes total.
Once off the kit was a breeze. Couldn't believe how much copper was missing from the old contacts, almost half gone. Don't know how it was working at all. The grey lead between the starter and the solenoid was worn through in one spot and partly missing (the insulation that is) on the end that connects to the solenoid. I wrapped it with electrical tape as a stop gap, fingers crossed it lasts.
The top nut was again an issue putting the start motor back on, but only getting the nut started as it is out of sight and my hand could only just touch it. After dropping the nut and losing it for a while (was in the universal joint!), hitting myself in the head with it a few times and a bit of swearing, in the end I got lucky after using a bit of masking tape to hold the nut in the socket with the extension attached and found the magical spot and angle that got it on. Was all back on in about 30 odd minutes
Started first time just like a new one. Seems like this was the issue and I am set for a good while again. Took be about 2 hours start finish and that was with a lot of fiddling and cleaning up the part before putting it back on, and a drink or two... Thanks for the help guys!
Pads
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