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Thread: Testing performance mods - no change?

  1. #1
    kwalikum Guest

    Testing performance mods - no change?

    I've got a 2001 td5 and thought I'd give a crack at some of the recommended performance mods including "testing" any improvements. After reading a ton of posts it seems the most you can rely on is *feeling* smoother, more responsive, etc. Perhaps my engine is running cleaner or my fuel economy is better, but I was expecting some improvement in speed off the line also.

    So, I picked a 0-100 test, or more specifically, a timed distance between two fixed points where my top speed is around 100km/h. I cleaned the MAP sensor before I started testing, so unfortunately that is not included.

    So far I have:
    1. EGR blanking kit
    2. Silicone turbo hoses (wasn't really expecting anything here)
    3. Removed centre muffler
    4. Replaced MAF sensor

    I did 2 runs after each change at about the same temperature (usually before/after tests) and noticed NO CHANGE.

    I do have an outstanding MAF sensor problem. The orignal produced a "logged low" fault on the nanocom and did not change from around 50 gr/hr. The replacement (a cheapo, yes, I've read all about OEM vs. cheapo, but $50 delivered vs. several hundred convinced me to take the risk. I'm not feeling so convinced any more) tops out at about 700 gr/hr under heavy acceleration and produces a "logged high" fault. With heavy acceleration, which is when I'm testing so there's still a chance for improvement here, the reading switches to 0, but recovers when you back off the accelerator. Any assistance with this would be appreciated.

    I don't have an flashable ECU so the next step is a bigger one for me, but I must say I'm pretty disappointed with the results so far.

    Does anyone have any *tested* results that show a benefit somewhere? Or a method I could use on my td5 short of booking a dyno?

    My td5 isn't bad, I just want it to be better!

  2. #2
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    none of your 4 mods are performance mods.

    3 of them are extend life time/ prevent future failure mods (EGR, MAF, silicone hoses)

    the last is a **** mod to let it make more noise unless you do other mods later on. (the OEM center muffler flows better than the rest of the exhaust until you up the exhaust size and/or remap the engine)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    kwalikum Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    none of your 4 mods are performance mods
    Wow. Ok, I guess I have to agree with you given that's what I've experienced so far. I'm surprised that so many others are also fooled into thinking these changes have something to do with performance, and I don't recall seeing that the centre muffler was not one of the limiting factors in air flow. At this point I'm guessing that de-cat (not an issue for me as I don't have one in any case) and larger intercooler aren't particularly helpful either.

    What would be considered a performance mod other than a remap?

  4. #4
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    Testing performance mods - no change?

    The centre muffler removal is allegedly for helping to turbo spool up faster in order to reduce lag.

    Get onto TRS in Adelaide ... for around $650 exchange, you'll get the performance you're after.

    A bigger intercooler will also help with your EGTs.

    Cheers

    Craig

  5. #5
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    Tweak your your waste gate.

    Appears you have access to a nanocom so hook it up and adjust boost to 19 psi ( just below cutoff at 20 psi).

    Do a search on here, lotsa posts, info etc.

    Then fit the bigger I/C .

    Doing that definitely improves performance, and its cheapo!

    I did mine and love the result.

  6. #6
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    Larger intercooler is a performance mod. So is an egr kit. The egr siphons off exhaust gas an recirculates it into the inlet. This means some boost is lost. It also means some unclean hot air into your intake. This WILL detract from performance. Getting rid of the egr with a kit means all exhaust gas is now for boost and only cool intake clean air is going into intake. This means better combustion.
    Don't get me wrong, the impact is not earth shattering and you won't notice the difference in your test distance to 100kph, but it would be noticed on a dyno.

    The larger intercooler will also be a good improvement because the intake air will be more effectively cooled so therefore a denser volume into the cylinder means more power developed. It has other benefits like the egt as well.

    All these things are steps in a whole process and their maximum benefit is only realised when the whole kit and caboodle is done, chipping, exhaust, etc etc.
    an upgraded ecu or reflash on the later ecu is the best and most obvious upgrade and you WILL notice that!

    Cheers
    Kev
    Kev
    2005 TDV6HSE D3
    2006 V8HSE D3
    99 TD5 D2 (Gone)
    97 RR Autobiography original (Gone)

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwalikum View Post
    Wow. Ok, I guess I have to agree with you given that's what I've experienced so far. I'm surprised that so many others are also fooled into thinking these changes have something to do with performance, and I don't recall seeing that the centre muffler was not one of the limiting factors in air flow. At this point I'm guessing that de-cat (not an issue for me as I don't have one in any case) and larger intercooler aren't particularly helpful either.

    What would be considered a performance mod other than a remap?
    larger diameter+/or mandrel bent exhaust, larger intercooler, stroke the cranke oversize the bores, replace the pistons for different compressor, different turbo, fitting a lies box between the engine and the ECU,

    If you expand your definition of performance to encompass the whole vehicle and not just the engines peak power/torque figures theres a whole scope more.

    If doing the 4 mods that you've already done increases the performance of your vehicle what you've achieved is a percieved gain from a degraded state to the factory state. (but in doing the mods you may be in violation of some legislation somewhere)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    larger diameter+/or mandrel bent exhaust, larger intercooler, stroke the cranke oversize the bores, replace the pistons for different compressor, different turbo, fitting a lies box between the engine and the ECU,

    If you expand your definition of performance to encompass the whole vehicle and not just the engines peak power/torque figures theres a whole scope more.

    If doing the 4 mods that you've already done increases the performance of your vehicle what you've achieved is a percieved gain from a degraded state to the factory state. (but in doing the mods you may be in violation of some legislation somewhere)
    Hey, owning a Land Rover is in violation of some legislation somewhere , just ask a toysan owner

    Kev
    Kev
    2005 TDV6HSE D3
    2006 V8HSE D3
    99 TD5 D2 (Gone)
    97 RR Autobiography original (Gone)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigkevg View Post
    Larger intercooler is a performance mod. So is an egr kit. The egr siphons off exhaust gas an recirculates it into the inlet. This means some boost is lost. It also means some unclean hot air into your intake. This WILL detract from performance. Getting rid of the egr with a kit means all exhaust gas is now for boost and only cool intake clean air is going into intake. This means better combustion.

    errrr, no, under full power conditions the EGR if working properly should be fully closed.

    The EGR (on a diesel) opens to displace some of the o2 in the intake during periods when the power request is such that the amount of diesel being injected is not enough to use up all the available o2, this reduces oxides of nitrogen.

    Essentially the only time the EGR opens is when you are not requesting full power and if you're not requesting full power then it doesnt matter if the EGR is open or not (from a power perspective).
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
    kwalikum Guest
    I have also read in other threads (not this one, yet) that suggest blanking EGR will *increase* EGT, and you should start worrying about exhaust manifold warping. To my mind less exhaust gas recirculation should make for cooler intake and correspondingly cooler exhaust. Thoughts?
    Last edited by kwalikum; 7th February 2013 at 06:41 PM. Reason: I'm a clown

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