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The LR tool is closer to what hendrik and ollie have put together in many respects:
Remover/Installer Knuckle Ball Joints Ref: LRT-54-008B
There are cheap rams of a similar design to the one fitted to the LR remover up on fleabay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RAM-HYDRA...#ht_2251wt_732
or a complete press unit designed for a BMW E36:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FIT-TOOLS...#ht_1299wt_761
cheers
Paul
When you consider the cost is high but many members with needing to replace ball joints, if everyone chipped in it would be cheap and it could be passed around, every one could do their repairs.Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTrack
I was thinking along the same lines. AULRO purchase it, hires it out (at a nominal fee). The person who has it, becomes the minder until the next person needs it and whoever needs it next pays the postage.Quote:
Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!
Some more thought needed but sure there's something that could work.
Another possiblity is someone gets the dimensions on the tool and the essential attachments and then someone gets it made. Looks pretty simple. Some M20 G8.8 threaded rods, some plate steel, tap a thread through the plate for the spindle, looks pretty simple to knock together. (If some one could give me the dimensions of the actual tool I would get it made and I'll donate it to AULRO).
I think the "make you own" option is the way to go (one which is almost identical to the propor tool).
Regards
Andrew
AndrewQuote:
Originally Posted by Andrew D
If its a genuine OTC its good for some repeat "wheelie" but the cups and press dies tend to get worn under frequent professional shop use.
The G clamp style remover / replacer tool is sturdy enough but I refrain from using an air gun on it.
These kits usually go for about $450 US
I have seen Chinese copies but I refuse to use them due to risk of injury to my blokes if the thing lets go.
I understand Snappy sells a very credible set which goes for an incredible about of money. I haven't tried that one yet!
Hope that helps!
Cheers Dennis
We purchased a Force Bearing Separator Kit from Tradetools $178 sometime ago it has been used on the D1 Tdi 200 when we reco'd the front & rear diffs fitting ARB lockers and 4:21 ? Crown wheel & pinions and many other jobs. When we did the D2 V8 Upper & Lower ball joints after messing around with a hyd puller we used the Force kit and made up some extra jig parts. I will be changing some spacers but with the smaller T/ tools kit at $98 plus extra jig parts the whole thing would be $200/ $250 at the most.
Ollie
Does anyone have an old, possibly crashed ball joint support with the B/J's in it, that i could use to make the tool we need.
shouldn't take long, i have some tool steel here and some silver steel bar to make the cups out of ,they can then be hardened and tempered for longer life.
i think everyone is looking for a big item when we only need a jack like tool with possibly only 3/4" stroke or even down to1/2"would do .
fairly easy to do so it does top and bottom remove/replace.
Let me know if anyone is interested in this option.
After getting in to this thread now i'm gunna have to go check my own out
thanks guys
Paul;)
Just a note, our BJs did not move with a 5t hyd cyld until we welded round the inside and put two saw cuts nearly all the way through. The LR tool is at least a10t press
Regards Ollie
I replaced mine at around 260k kms, but they were stuffed since around 230k kms.
I will draw up the some .dwg drawings of the tools I used for mine and up the files up on my write up. It's pretty easy to make the tool, even easier when you can use the .dwg file to get the tools laser cut and welded up.
Hi Folks,
I know this thread is a tad aged but I just purchased the Force 66601 Kit for $115 dollars and currently making a set of install plates and tubes for removal and install of upper only as did the lowers some time ago. The Force 66601 has near identical kit to the 66613 at $209 and I had real trouble seeing any difference save a sticker around the ram and one additional o ring on the base of the ram. I'll post up my tube and plate sections and just one question re new upper ball going in.
Does it matter if I just put a plate between the ram and ball joint or do I need to use a plate and another tube on the outer ball joint outer ridge then driving it in?
If it does I'll go back and located a smaller dia tube and cut to size here.
Hey gents. What are the symptoms of lower and upper ball joint wear (I know how to check, just want to know what symptoms are felt in the steering for example...is it twitchy at 100 for example...or does the car tend to follow contours in the road at speed etc?).
Cheers