D2 2001 160k The upper and lower ball joints are worn and so we set about replacing them. The boy bought the vehicle in Nov 12. The BJs on the drivers side came out with difficulty, the passenger side not yet. We made up brackets and used a 5t. Hydraulic cylinder at full pressure on both BJs without any movement. My question what is the max force of the LRT 205 719 press? Do we need a 10t cylinder? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks Ollie
It is possible that you do need a bigger ram. However b4 you go that way try heating the housing around the ball joint with a heat gun. I would refrain from using direct flame heating given its positioning. Most times a little heat and expansion is all that is needed.
Andrew I need to wear reading glasses and the tears fog them up hence the need for the rag. You can't have a real 'Love Hate' relationship without a Landie. I still get asked '"Are you playing at Landrovers this weekend"
I did think that the yoke is welded to the axle so would heat be an issue but there are other things to try yet. The Sykes pullers on the web are rated at 10T.
Ollie
Likewise, I personally would persist without applying heat. In my opinion, the heating of the yoke would have to be in a very controlled manner. You don't want to overheat and fatigue the metal. The heating of the yoke at the ball joint will not result in great temperature increase at the weld. It will obviously get hotter at the weld but you should be able to still touch it with your hand provided you don't overheat the yoke in the first instance.
If I was to use heat I would have an infrared thermometer handy to ensure the temperature didn't exceed a predetermined limit. Off the top of my head I'm thinking 400 degree celsius (maximum). Regardless of the temperature it should not change colour (e.g. orange).
Ollie
an old bushie showed me this one and i've never regretted using it
just run a small weld around the top section of the ball joint near the shank and the heat transferred into it shrinks it after cooling for a few minutes,normally they just drop out or a light tap with a hammer on the shank will pop it out.the heat in the ball doesn't transfer enough to even warm up the the other parts
Paul
Thanks All
Modelsp I remember years ago seeing someone weld round the inside of a bearing race and then lift it out. Tried welding round the inside of the open body of the upper joint applied the press without luck.
Used an air reciprocating saw to carefully cut two close cuts as deep as possible without going right through put the 5t cyld back in left it on full pressure within a couple of minutes it went with a bang. Three down one to go
Ollie
save yourself a lot of hacksawing and get cutoff wheels for your 100mm grinder,6pak from bunnings about $7 ,cut the top off like you have done in your foto's and then get your weld down inside the ball socket as deep as you can it doesn't have to be good weld just a lot of heat to make it at least black hot>>past dark blue.if you can get to the outer end where the grease nipple usually goes put some there as well,if they don't come out easy then,the only option is the Gas Axe down thru the centre of your foto #2.
Paul
This is on the boys D2 V8 2001 everything has been really tight from the wheels, disc rotors etc have been difficult. I think this is an occasion that you really need the LR special upper and lower ball joint tool that I think has a 10t capacity.
Ollie
Master
Looks like some blood in the background.
down thru the centre of your foto #2.
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