Thread: V8 fuelling and sparking but no start. HELP PLEASE

According to my D2 wiring diagram, passenger compartment fuse 24 (10A) is the first fuse after the ignition switch, then this turns on the ignition relay and fuse 24 (20A) which is the ignition coils fuse. Check for battery voltage at both these fuses with the ignition on. Check that the ignition relay is clicking on with the key.

As the coils are a waste spark system they fire two cylinders per coil, at opposite TDC's, the flywheel sensor should in theory need only trigger each of the four coils once per revolution. You should be able to use a timing light to determine if no.1 or no.6 cylinder is firing near TDC. You could possibly test probe the coil connections at the ECU, the wires are red and blue in one coax cable, and white/blue stripe and pink/black stripe in the other coax cable.

And of course you may have just flooded it. Leave the plugs out for 12 hours and refit after cleaning.

Also, is the MAF plugged in and no rag sucked into it? You never know.

thanks Bee utey.
Maf is definitely connected. I will try a spare known working one tomorrow and test prob as you say.
It's just strange I drove it to where it stands now and then this problem occured once I fitted another auto.
As I said above I also replaced the xyz switch when I fitted the auto, but can't imagine it would prevent firing up. It cranks in park and neutral. Will fit the old one just to eliminate it as a cause

I'll pull all the plugs and give the engine as a spin and see it fit cranks freely. might as well do a compression test while I'm at it and see if any valves are stuck.

That does seem really strange. It sounds like it could be edu fault somewhere.

Do you have any devise for reading errors/fault codes. It would be interesting to see what it says.

Originally Posted by walker

That does seem really strange. It sounds like it could be edu fault somewhere.

Do you have any devise for reading errors/fault codes. It would be interesting to see what it says.

Nanacom doesn't show any faults. The only fault I had was due to me disconnecting the battery to do the work.

Did you change the Crank Angle Sensor?If you did it may be a dud. Sit back and run through all the stuff you replaced and refitted, think which bit affects engine and check it. Something has not gone back right or has failed. Dont just replace haphazardly as that could get exxy.

Cheers Scott

Originally Posted by schuy1

Did you change the Crank Angle Sensor?If you did it may be a dud. Sit back and run through all the stuff you replaced and refitted, think which bit affects engine and check it. Something has not gone back right or has failed. Dont just replace haphazardly as that could get exxy.

Cheers Scott

Hi Scott,The crank angle senor was replaced, new one same situation as old one.
Yes parts can be exxy, but being a land rover parts supplier does help
The only thing I replaced before the problem was with a second hand XYZ switch as mine was broken at top where wires enter .So I'll pull that and swap the old one back to eliminate that as a cause.
cheers, Mario

can you reset adaptive values with nanacom for both the box and the engine.shouldn't stop it starting though

Originally Posted by bee utey

According to my D2 wiring diagram, passenger compartment fuse 24 (10A) is the first fuse after the ignition switch, then this turns on the ignition relay and fuse 24 (20A) which is the ignition coils fuse. Check for battery voltage at both these fuses with the ignition on. Check that the ignition relay is clicking on with the key.

stAs the coils are a waste spark system they fire two cylinders per coil, at opposite TDC's, the flywheel sensor should in theory need only trigger each of the four coils once per revolution. You should be able to use a timing light to determine if no.1 or no.6 cylinder is firing near TDC. You could possibly test probe the coil connections at the ECU, the wires are red and blue in one coax cable, and white/blue stripe and pink/black stripe in the other coax cable.

And of course you may have just flooded it. Leave the plugs out for 12 hours and refit after cleaning.

Also, is the MAF plugged in and no rag sucked into it? You never know.

Progress today.
Maf not the problem, I just tried a known working one, and nada
I did a compression check.
Cold figures cranking
1. 140
2. 130
3. 125
4. 80 (put a1/2 cap of engine oil in and 100, crank with throttle open 110)
5. 95
6. 115
7. 90
8. 110
So down on compression on a couple of cylinders,( rings?? maybe due to over fueling petrol sitting on piston rings), but should still start.

Fuse 23 has SM symbol voltage 0.14volts key on
Fuse 24 has engine symbol with electic bolt through it .0 volts with key on